
GoipghtN^ 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 








^l,^^7r>^. 



CURT TEICM &. CO., Ch 



THE 



SUPREME SYSTEM 



CUTTING AND GRADING 



C O ^V T S -- A" E S T S 



FRED'K T. CROONBORG 



PU BLISH E D BY 

FRED'K T. CROONBORG 
Chicago. Illinois. 



JUL 27 1903 

I Copyiifiht Entry 

tLASff * XXaNo. 

COPY B. 



CONTENTS. 



Preface ..... 

Preliminary Remarks and Laws of Proportion 

How to Measure .... 

The Principle . . . . t^ 

Application of the Piinciple . . . K 

The Outline . . . . !•- 

Four-Button Sack Coat . . .14 

Double Breasted Sack Coat. 

Tuxedo Coat ..... 

Single Breasted Sack for a small-waisted person 

Sack Coat for Corpulent Figure 

The Norfolk .... 

The Hunting Sack .... 

Military Blouse .... 

English Derby Sack .... 

Single Breasted Overcoat . 24 

Double " 

Exaggeration of Overcoat 

Three Button Frock . 

Frock Coat for Corpulent Figure. 

English Walking Coat 

Double Breasted Frock . 

Flaring of Skirt 

Full Dress Coat . 

Full Dress Coat without Strap & Lapel Seams 40 

Degree of Variation 

Stooping and Erect 

Combination of Stooping, round, Erect and Flat 

Sloping and Square 

Combination of Stooping, Round and Sloping 

Stooping Round and Square ] ,, '',[ '.[• 

Combination of Erect, Flat and S'qiiare .' "'•- 

Erect, Flat and Sloping .,.,,. -u „- , , 

Long and Short Neck .;'[ .', ,V V; ; ; ;,' 

Narrow and Broad Shoulders 

Actual Measurement .... 





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36, 


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lat 


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■ 47 




MS 




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:5o 


.50, 


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52, 


53 



Application of Actual Measurement 

The Normal Sleeve .... 

Sleeve with inside seam cut well under 

Raglan Sleeve. .... 

Sleeve with one Seam 

Double Breasted Ulster 

The Raglan .... 

Inverness ....". 

Knights Templar Coat 

The Clerical Coat .... 

The Cassock .... 

The Surtout ..... 

Single Breasted New Market 

The Paddock ..... 

Policeman's Coat .... 

Single and Double Breasted Coachman's Coat 

Valet's Coat .... 

The Collars and Lapels 

The Capes and Lapels. 

Single Breasted No-Collar Vest 

D. B. No-Collar Vest and Single Breasted 

notch Collar Vest for Fat Man 
D. B. Lapel Front Full Dress Vest . 
Clerical Vest 

Grading ..... 

Sack Grade 

Frock Grade . . . 

Sleeve Grade, 

Vest Grade .... 1 

Proportion Table 

Scale of Heights .... 

Appendix . . . ■ . H 

Ptice List of Publications and Patterns 
The Fashionable Cutter and Tailor's Gazette 
The Fred'k T. Croonborg Tailors Cutting School 





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PREFACE. 



\\V are pnworloss to intercept the propagation of human achievement. Progress is the outcome 
of natural law as designed by the Almighty Deity. The World is spasmodically startled from time to 
time by the heralding of some mighty force introduced into our existence by some diligent worker. Oft- 
times the result of these achievements of human skill supplant the mode of their predecessor and stand 
supreme ui)on llie i)edestal of human endeavor until "like a lightning bolt from the heavens" they are 
torn from iheir sui^remacy by some invention more powerful and far reaching. This procedure is termed 
progression and it is as it should be. for without it we would remain stationary and e\-entually retrograde. 
AVe are thus forced by nature to push fonvard to some higher plane. 

Some people have remarked that success makes one egotistical ; this may be true in some cases, 
but 1 beg leave to be placed outside the amphitheatre of such a circle- The flattering mannerwith which 
tlie craft accepted my first work might have been material enough to produce such a state of feeling, 
but it only served as a propelling force in stirring my blood into quicker action and promoting that 
enthusiasm which k'ads to higher endeavors in life's work. In the tliick of such enthusiasm I have la- 
bored diligentlv to iiniduce tlie \-olume that now lies before you. 

'I'lie result as a masterpiece I believe to have been wortli the effort, and, as failure is not placed 
upon my menu 1 unreservedly say, that I expect this volume to reap a certain pecuniary reward. 

These foregoing statements will also go far toward proving that I am not seeking professional glory, 
but that the monetary issue and a hope that my product may prove of invaluable aid to many and be 
ap])reciated bv all. was the dominating force that encircled the embiyo of my efforts. 

Tlie principles involved are not a nonentity but a reality resulting from a clear conception of the 
human form and its proper relation to garment cutting. Every portion of the system herein disclosed 
is in direct harmony with its correlative parts, thereby giving symmetry and grace to the garment. 

I have carefully avoided any unnecessary.^ points and lines and eliminated all those difficulties that 
tend to confuse the student. Simplicity with accuracy was the aim sought. 

I have dwelt largely ujion proportion and believe that the lessons given on that subject will give 
the reader a greater concei)tion of heights, lengths and widths than anything lieretofore published. 

Taken all in all, I have faithfully endeavored to give to the cutting fraternity the results of a 
life-long study in the simplest and most practical manner, and if in doing so I liave bettered anv cutter's 
condition 1 sliall consider my work well done. 

The Author. 



PRELIMIMARY REMARKS AND LAWS OF PROPORTION." 

In selecting a mudcl lor jn-aetice we will eluiose the conventional 'M) size for all under-coats, with 
the exception of the sizes that reciuire \-ariation from the regular formula. 

In drafting we use only the regular square with the usual divisions of halves, fourths, eighths, 
1 hinls, twelfths and sixteenths on the same. A proportionate suljject is supposed to measure four inches 
less over the waist than over the lireast, and one inch more over the seat than over the breast. The 
following measures are therefore adopted : 

Breast 36 inches. 

Waist 82 ' ' (being 4 inches less than the breast) . 

Seat 37 " (being 1 inch more than the breast). 

\Vith 4 inches accepted as tlie normal <lifference between the breast and waist, it must be under- 
stood, that any enlargement would indicate that the front must receive a slight iirominence over the 
sides; while it is well to say, that as long as the waist measure is not larger than the breast measure 
an advance of J- inch to the front is suflicient; when the w^st is larger than the breast i; of an inch 
.should be advanced, if the waist is smaller than the proportionate the forwanl attitude of the form 
requires that the front of waist should be Inil slightly retreated and should at no time C(Mne back any 
farther than the square diiwn front line would indicate. The excess of size must l)e su])re.ssed else- 
where, for which you will find full directions later. 

Experience has demonstrated that there should be a certain iprojiortionate a.l\-ancc at the waist, 
therefore, when your measure registers 4 inches less at the waist than at the breast the waist fnmt 
of pattern should be advanced \ of an inch Ix'yond the breast; this is absolutely normal, as my method 
of applying the waist measure in draft will indicate. This rule holds good for lioth coats and vests and 
";;/v when the waist measure increases beyond the difference of 4 inches, or possil>ly in a round subject, 
should there lie any excess over \ of an inch. 

The balance line which is squared up and down at the front of seye determines the location of the 
arm-hole for the different figures. The waist measure should be applied by first measuring off the 
width of back at waist, placing the result at front of waist and coming luick fowanls the side, adding 
3|- inches. The seat measure is applied backward from the balance line using the two-thiixls of the 
divisions on the square with an additional 1 '; inches, including the width of back at said point. 

The depth of seye is obtainetl proportionate by -^ breast plus 3^ inches, making the difference be- 
tween the sizes 3/16 of an inch at this point. The front of seye is obtained by i breast plus 3J inches, 
making a difference of J inch between the sizes over the blade. 2i inches is added to the breast measure 
so as to give sufficient allowance for makeup and seams. The button-stand extends on an average 
of 1\ inches at the breast and 1 inch at the waist for the single-breasted sack wdiile for the double- 
breasted sack 3i inches is a good average all the way down. This rule holds good for the normal figure, 
or a subject o feet and .S inches, which we will call an average man. Should the subject be as tall 
as () feet, we w(nild increase the dc]ith of seye I, inch for each iiu'h he exct'cds ."> \\-r{ S inches; should 
he be short, as only r, feet f inches, decrease the deiUh i inch for ivicli inch he is shorter than T) fci't 
<S inches. 

The waist length should be I breast on the divisions and ' of the entire height. The seat line can 
lie located by J- breast on the divisions and ]f of the entire height. A good a\-erage length for a sack 
coat is obtained by ^^ breast on the divisions and J- of the entire height. For further particulars on this 
subject note Table of Proportions and Scale of Heights. 



HOW TO MEASURE. 

The term MIvASL'RIXl". means llie application of the measuring tape to and from the different 
parts of tl;e l^ody and ascertaining that one station is so many inches from another. If the space 
differs eitlier to one side or tlie otiier from the different riuantities, the surface on which the measure is 
ajiphed is either larger or smaller than the normal size, 'i'his is thetheors'of measuring and should be 
so understood. 

Customers are divided into three classes: the normal, the tall and thin and the short and stout. 
In each class we meet with several degrees of the same ly])e, where more than one element or cha- 
racter is found. In providing for the re(iuirements of the one special feature, it is possible to run 
counter to another. 

In jiractic'd cutting the knowledge of the full height of the figure is of more value than many 
would su])])ose. In the tall and thin figure, certain kinds of peculiarities are always found. The height 
is of \-alue as a guide to regulate the style, lengths of the garment and to avoid the possibility of cutting 
a short coat for a tall figure and a long coat for a short figure. As a rule I find great difficulty in im- 
pressing the students with an vmderstanding of the necessity for the height as a positive guide to regu- 
late the sha]ie of the garment for the various figures. 

When a customer presents himself to be measured, take a good look at the attitude and general 
]iroiiortion of the figure; a mere glance will enable the active minded student to give character to the 
form and classify the whole substance. Ascertain the style of garment for which the measures are to 
be taken ; i-)roceed to take the necessary measures and let them be as few as possible. Api)ly the tape 
in a free and easy manner. Stand behind the customer, take a firm hold of the tape, place the end of it 
where the collar sean\ is intended to be, pass the tape through the right hand down to the waist, fix 
tlie natural waist; ne.N.t down to the most prominent part of the seat, then continue down and obtain 
full length of the coat. In frock coats fix the fashionable waist U inches below the natural waist. 
Take the I^reast, waist and seat measures aiid the sleeve length from the arm-pit down to the hand. 
Measures should be taken neither too snug nor too loose, but let them be called medium snug. These 
are all the measures necessary to take for the coat when you are using proportion and variations, 
and after being entered in the measure-book they should stand in the following order: 17, 24, 28, 3fi, 32, 
37, sleevedength IS; 5 feet S inches in height, and a description of attitude. 

I'or vests take the waist-length, opening, full length, length at the side, breast and waist measure. 
Promi)riy note all jiarticulars. It may be well to say that the beginner should always use proportions 
and variations, and not the shoulder measures until he is well ad\:inced. Further direi'tions how to 
measure under the head of .\("iaAL .M i^ASUREMHXT on .inollier p.ige of this volume. 



THE "PRINCIPLE." 

The vSUPREME vSYSTEM is based iqion the most sini])le and i)ractical principle. The author 
purposely omits all unnecessary lines and eounterdines, circles and counter-circles, on the ground that 
they are impractical and onlv ]ia\e a tendency to confuse the student, and have for that reason placed 
before the trade so simi)le a ]-)rinci]ile that it can be understood at almost a glance. Let us assume 
tlnatwehave a subject that measures '.](] breast and 5 feet S inches in lieight, and proceed as follows: 

Kule a line from K to D. 

vSelect a point for ( ) and make a circle of 3; 14 of the breast measure. 

K to L is I of the breast measure. 

Rule a line from L to O and down to the liottom of the circle as 10 
indicates. This is the balance line. 

Point T is half way between 10 and 0. 

vScjuare back and forth from T, finding points J and N. 

Sweep up from N using point J as the pivot finding point L. 

Sweep up from J using N as the pivot, finding point L. 

Square back and forth from \l by perpendicular line ; this is the 
breast line. 

]\I to G is |- of the breast measure. 

M to IT is ^ of the breast measure. ■ 

Square up and down from G. 

Square up from H. 

L to Y is 1/12 of the breast measure. 

Shape neck as indicated at A. 

D indicates the waist-line which is found by applying J of the breast 
measure plus -J- of the height from A. 

The square across line at E is the seat-line and will be found by ap- 
plying ^ of the breast on Division plus \ of the entire height from A. 

The line squared across at F will be found by applying J breast mea- 
sure on Di\-ision plus -} of the entire height from A 

Point S is the most important point from which everything goes out 
and is found by squaring up from G to line N and J. 

Shape up the top as indicated, this will conclude tlie explanation of 
finding the principle points of the SUPREME SYSTEM. 



The Principle. 




APPLICATION OF THE PRINCIPLE. 

Having in i)ix'\-u..us tliagram cxjjlained huw \vc find the \-arious points 
in a C( )mbination of breast and heights, we will proceed bv applying our 
regular coat draft to the principle. 

Square back ami forth from (>, C, E and I^". 

(t to B is I breast measure on division plus Sh inches. 

vSquare up and down from B. 

Square back from perpendicular line by V finding ]iiiint A. 

A to R is J of the breast measure. 

Rule a Hne from S to R. 

Square back frcjni 11 finding point Z. 

Place corner of square at S, let long arm of the same rest on Z, and 
square up from S finding ]:)oint X. 

X to Q is 1^ of the l)reast measure. 

B to I is the breast measure plus 2{ inches. 

Square down from I. 

Rule a Hne from Q to I. 

O to Pis ^} breast measure. 

Rule a line from X to Z. 

I^educe the back part % inch at C, and shape down as indicated from Z. 

Shape back of arm-hole, shoulder and neck-hole as indicated, and 
the application of the ]jrinciple is thereby completed. 



Application of the Principle. 




THE OUTLINE. 

In this outline we will combine height and width using onhy- the breast measure and the height of 
the figure. We will take as near a normal figure as possible, for example, assuming that he is 36 breast 
and 5 feet N inches in height, which, as a matter of fact, is a normal subject. 

TO DRAFT. 

Scjuare out and down from A. 
A to Y is I' breast measure on the division. 
Y to B is 3 5" inches. 

A to C is ^ breast measure, and l of the entire height. 
.\. to D is J breast measure plus J of the entire height. 
A to E is ^ breast measure plus I of the entire height, which will 
give the average length of a sack coat. 
Square out B, C, D and E. 
B to W is on the halves of the breast measure. 
W to G is 3^ inches. 
B to J is the breast measure. 
J to I is '2{ inches. 
Sc[viare down from T. 
Square vip and down from G. 
G to H is \ breast measure plus I inch. 
H to F is f inch. 
Square up from H. 
Square down from F. 
G to S is linch. 

A to R is i; breast measure. 
Rule a line from S to R. 
Square back fi-om K finding point Z. 

Place the corner of square at S and let long arm of the same rest on Z. 
Square up from S to X and Q. 
Rule a line from S to Z. 
X to Q is l of the breast measure. 
Rule a line from Q to I. 
O to P is ^- breast measure. 
Rule a line from X to Z. 
RrUe a hne from U to P. 
A to T is ^ of the breast measure. 
This is the outline and contains the principle points. 



The Outline. 




T — ti c" irrtF 



'II 1! 



V 



*c 



iO 



FOUR-BUTTON SACK COAT 

The following are the measurements used in producing this draft : 

Length of waist 17 inches Breast 36 inches 

To the seat 24 " Waist 32 

Full length 28 " Seat 37 " 

TO DRAFT. 

Scjuare out and down from A. 

A to B is •' of the breast measure plus 3^- inches. 

A to C is the waist length or 17 inches. 

A to D is the measure to the seat or 24 inches. 

A to E is full length of coat. 

Square out B, C, D and E. 

B to W is h breast on division. 

\V to (> is 3^ inches. 

IJ to j is the breast measure. 

1 t(j 1 is 2{ inches. 
Square down from I. 
Square up and down from G. 
G to H is ^ breast plus I inch. 
H to F is i inch. 

Sqviare up from H and down from F. 

G to S is 1 inch. 

A to R is ^ breast. 

Rule a line from S to R. 

Square back from K to Z. 

Rule a line from S to Z. 

Place corner of square on S and let long arm of the square rest on Z. 

Square up from S to X and Q. 

X to Q is I breast measure. 

Rule a line from O to I and from X tf) Z. 

L to O is ^V waist measure on the divisiim. 

Shape as indicated from Q to I, O and down. 

H to 4 is 1/16 of the breast micasure. 

A to T is li of the breast measure. 

T to 1 is ;l;r of an inch. 

K to 18 is I of an inch. 

Shape as indica,ted from A to 1, 1 to 18, and 18 to 2. 

Q to P is ^ breast. 

Draw a line from U to P. 

X to Y is the same distance as from 1 to IS minus ', inch. 

2 to 3 is i inch. 

Shape arm-hole from Y to S, and 3 to S. 

Shape the shoulder from Y to X and the neck-hole from X to P. 

C to 13 is i inch. 

Square down from 13. 

Rule a line from Z to 13. 

Apply waist measure plus 31 inches from 9 to 13, and to 8. 

Apply seat measure on the s of the division plus lij inches, froni V 
to 4, and N to M. 

Shape as indicated from 2 to 9, V to 11, and shape from 3 to 8 and 10. 

Sweep back from 11, using point 2 as the pivot finding point 10. 

Sweep forth from 10, using point X as the pivot finding point 7. 

7 to 16 is 1 inch. 

I to Sis 1 J inches. 

O to 6 is linch. 

Shape lapel and front as indicated in this diagram, and finish as 
represented. 



Four-Button Sack Coat. 





DOUBLE BREASTED SACK COAT. 



Tliis coat is (Iniftcd precisely the same as the Single-Breastcd Sack, and tlie same measurements 
are used, the only difference being the extension of front. 
1 to 5 is 3^ inches. 
to 6 is S-l inches. 
16 to 12 is Scinches. 
Take out a V ^^ inch in front of P. 

Peak the lapel according to taste and style, shape up the front as indicated in this diagram and 
finish as represented. 




TUXEDO COAT. 



^ri'asun'mrnls aiv as t(ill<i\vs; 

WaisL lengLli 17 inches 

To the seat 2U 

Full length 28 " 

Breast 36 " 

Waist -.VI " 

Seat .S7 

All points are obtained the same way as in the regular sack coats which ha\e been described in the 
foregcMng diagrams, the only ditYerence being that no button-stand is extended to the front and an 
additional 1-^ inches is added from P to o. The length of the roll maybe made according to the pre- 
\-ailing style; an average of 3^^ inches below the waist line is a good medium. Draw a line from 
where you wish the roll to extend and } inch forward of point X; this indicates the creasing line. 

Make the collar stand 1 \ inches and shape the shawl according to the prevailing style, or as in- 
dicated in this diagram; \'] inches in the back and around the neck, and 3 inches at the wide part of 
the shawl is a good average, however, in this respect I would always be guided by the prevailing style. 

IT 




SINGLE-BRESATED SACK FOR A SMALL-WAISTED PERSON. 



Wc will use the same measures as in forei^oinii drafts with the exeei)ti()n of the waist measure, 
vhieh is ;!() instead of 32. 

It is well to say, that I never eome liack at the waist in front farther than to the line obtainted 1ia- 
;(|uarin,<i down from I. In order to olitain the closeness desired take out a V from 16 to 4 and let the 
)aek and front part run together at 8, so as to make up for the two seams taken out at 16. I also take 
)ut an additional 1/16 of an inch at C for each inch my subject is under proportion. 

In other respects this coat is drafted precisely the same as the foregoing single-breasted sack. 




SACK COAT FOR CORPULENT FIGURE. 

^Measurements used are as follows; 

Waist length IS inches Breast 42 inches 

To the seat 25 " Waist 43 

I<\ill length of coat 29 " vSeat 43 

This sack-coat is drafted exactly the same as the other sack-coats. The front adjusts itself at the 
\vaist by applying the ^ waist measure from L to O. 

In order to obtain a well-fitting coat over the stomach for a fat man make a cut from the center 
of the arm-hole and down to the pocket. Lap the front as indicated in thisdiagram at point 17 arid 
take out what maj' result from this shortening the front in the cut under the arm and the pocket. In 
doing this it will lx> unnccessar\- that the tailor hold the front short with the tape, as by performing 
this operation upon the front part you will obtain the jiropcr shape required for a fat man over the 
stomach. 

In this coat as well as in the small-waisted let the back and front part run together at 10 so as to 
make up for the two scams used at W. Come back J of iui inch at \' for even,- inch the sul)ject is 
over proportion. All other points remain the same as in the foregoing sack drafts. 



19 




THE NORFOLK. 



The following are the measurements used : 

Waist length 17 inches 

To the seat 2U " 

Fulllength 28* " 

This coat is drawn exactly the same as the regula 

wider as indicated by squaring down from II; in iijiph 

have the pattern ready, mark off Uu' xnkc as indiiatrd it 

paper and trace off the yoke and tlic u]>]vr part (if ihc 

The straps extending from the 1 irrast line down may 

coat, leaving openings at tin- \\aistdine lo allow the belt t 

The pockets are plai.x'd \mder the front strap, up and 

There is nothing take'U (jut in the back at C', in a 



Breast 36 inches 

Waist 32 " 

Seat 37 " 

straight front sack, except the back being 
ng waist measure add 3| inch. When you 
tins (bagram. Lay your pattern on another 



respects there 
and this coat. 



dil 



■nee as far as tlte drafting is ( 



:es and stitched on tht 

is diagram. 

idd 3 J inches, in oiliei 

lar straiglit -front sad 




f— ^ 



THE HUNTING SACK. 

The measurements are as follows: 

Waist lenaith 17 inches. Ihvast 36 jnclies 

To the seat 2U " Waist 32 " 

Full length 29 " Seat 37 " 

The dilTerence between the regular coat and the hunting sack is, that generally this coat is cut 
two sizes larger than the measures call for and the back broader by squaring down from H, 
or the same way as the Norfolk in not taking out anything at C. In applying waist measure add 
3J inches. If the customer measured 36, 32 and 37, 1 would cut the coat by 3S, 34 and 39, so as to 
allow suHicient space for anmiunition and other things w-ished to be carried in the pockets. 

As indicated b",- the dotted lines a protector is put on the shoulders so as to give more sendee and 
wear. The i)ockets"are generally patched and finished up with flaps as indicated in the draft and arc 
unusually large ; the breast-pockets being about 6 -V inches wide and about 8 inches deep ; the side- 
pockets are about 10 inches wide and as deep as the length of the coat will allow. 

It is cut upon the principle of the regular straight front sack with slightly rounded comers. 

If the frock stvle is desired go down } breast measure from 6 to 7. C to D is 2 inches. Rule 
a line from D to 7 and shape top of skirt as indicated, by dotted line from I) to 7. At no time would 
I cut a side body for a coat of this character. Further, if a frock coat is desired make an extension 
for a plait as the dotted line indicates in the back from A and D the frock. On the skirt extend 
wdiatevcr the difference may be from V to il at E. Make the frock coat about 1 inch longer, other- 
wise, do not make any other changes from the regular coat. 

21 




MILITARY BLOUSE. 

Measurements used are as follows: 

Waist length 17 inches Breast 36 inches 

To the seat 24 " Waist 32 " 

Full length 28 " Seat 37 " 

To Draft. 
Tlif i:>rincii)al points are obtained the same as in an ordinary sack coat, hence so as not to con 1 1 
the student we shall proceed with the changes that are necessary to obtain a Militarv' Blouse. 
C to V is I inch. 
V to S is { of the waist measure. 
L to 2 is ^ of the waist measure plus 2 inches. 

Divide distance between V and 2 in three spaces, as 2, 3 and 4 indicates. 
8 to 7 is the same distance as from 3 to V. 
7 to 6 is |- of the waist measure. 
5 to 6 is the same distance as from 2 to 3. 
K to 10 is I of the breast measure. 
Shape as indicated from 10 to 8, 11 and down. 

Apply the seat measure in the same manner as in an ordinary sack coat but only add 1 inch to ?an 
Shape as indicated from 10 to 7, 12 and down. 
G to F is I of the breast measure. 

Shape from F to 5 and down to the bottom as indicated. 

Shape from F to 6 and down as shown in this diagram and finish as represented. 

22 




ENGLISH DERBY SACK 

.Measurc'iTH'iils used as follows: 

Natural waist 1 7 inches Breast 'M'^ inches 

Fashionable waist 19 " Waist '■V2 

Full length 20 " Seal ;^7 " 

All svsU'malical points are nl)taine(i in the same way as in the re.uular sack coat exce])t tlic waist 
^u])lM•essi()n, anil addition to seat measure which is dbtained in the same manner ])reviiiusly ex])]ained 
in the Military lilouse. 



To Draft. 
\' to S on the waist line is \ of the waist measure. 
7 to 6 is l of llie waist measure. 
K to 3 is l, of the breast measure. 

Shape as indicated in this diagram and allow outlet as shown from 9 to 19 and from 2(1 t<i 
making a jilait from the fashionable waist down placing a button at 9. 

'i"he pnekets siiould be finished with a welt slanting as indicated, and finished as re])resented. 

2.3 



SINGLE BREASTED OVERCOAT. 

Measures used are as follows: 

Waist length IS inclies Breast 40 inches 

To the seat 25 i " Waist 30 " 

Full length 42 " Seat 41 

TO DRAFT. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is ^ breast, plus 3 ^ inches. 

A to C is the waist length. 

A to D is length to the seat. 

A to E is the length of the coat. 

Square out B, C, D and E. 

B to W is ^ breast. 

W to G is 3 i inches. 

B to J is the breast measure. 

J to I is 2 i inches. 

G to H is \ breast plus h inch. 

Square down from I. 

Square up and down from G. 

Square up and down from H. 

G to S is 1 inch. 

A to R is ^ of the breast measure. 

Rule a line from S to R. 

Square back from K finding point Z, 

Place corner of square at S, let long arm of the same rest on Z 

Square up from S to X and Q. 

Rule a line from S to Z. 

X to Q is {j- breast measure. 

Rule a line from Q to I. 

Rule a line from X to Z. 

A to T is ^ breast. 

T to 1 is f inch. 

Kto 18 is finch. 

C to V is J inch. 

Rule a line from Z to V. 

Square down from V. 

H to F is iV of the breast measure. 

Shape from A to 1, 1 to 18 and 18 to 2, 2 to 3 and down. 

Take out ^ inch between back and front jiart at 2. 

L to O is ^ of the waist measure. 

Apply waist measure from 3 to V, and O to 17. 

17 to 4 is 4^- inches. 

Apply the seat measure on the j of the divisions and add 2-1 inches 
from 5 to D and N to 6. 

Shape from 2 to 4, 6 and down. 

Shape from Q to I, 0, 10 and down. 

Q to P is ?j of the breast measure. 

Rule a line from U to P. 

X to Y is the same distance as from 1 to 18, minus \ inch. 

Shape arm-hole from Y to S and 2 to S. 

Shape shoulder as indicated from Y to X. 

Sweep back from 11 using point 2 as the pivot. 

Sweep forth from 12 using point X as the pivot. 

13 to 14 is 1 inch. 

1 to 7, to 8, 10 to 9 and 14 to 1 5, are each 2 inches. 

Shape neck-hole from X to P, lapel and bottom as indicated in this 
diagram and finish as represented. 

24 



Single Breasted Overcoat, 





DOUBLE BREASTED OVERCOAT. 

Tlic followin<; ;irc the measurements used : 

Waist length 18^ inches Breast 42 inches 

To the seat- 26 " Waist 3S 

Fulllcncjth 4.S " Seat 43 " 

TO DRAFT. 
All systematical ])(>ints arc obtained the same \va\' as in the single-breasted over-coat; tlic 
lerence is the extension of front which of course \-aries, acconbng to tlie ])re\-ailing st^•]e. 
P to 20 is 1 1- inches. 
Draw a line from G to 20 and up. 
20 to 19 is 3i inches. 

I to 7, to 8, 10 to 9, 14 to 15 arc each 3^ inches. 
Take out a Y, on an aA'erage of ^ inch at point 20. 
Sliapc front as indicated in this diagram and finish as represented. 

2G 




EXAGGERATION OF OVERCOAT. 



'l'liis.!i;i-rai 
Make a slasl 



llK- 



ilinn will lianllv he neccssaiy. 

iboiil 1 ', inches above the breast line and lo 



sli from the botloni ot the baek u\i U 
hole. 

.Make a slash in the front part, extendine; about 1 .\ inches above the breast line and to the arm- 
hole. 

Spread the baek at liottom about \\ inches and the front about 2 inches . 

Place this pattern upon another paper and mark ofl", and you will have an overcoat that spreads 
well at the bottom without changing the balance of the coat. 



THREE BUTTON FROCK 

McnsureTnenls Inr this ilral'l art' as follows: 

Natural waist 16 ^ inches Breast 36 inches 

Fashionable waist .IS " Waist 32 

To the seat 25 " vSeat 37 " 

Full length 36 

TO DRAFT. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is J breast plus 3 ^V inches. 

A to C is the measure of the natural w;ust length (ir 16 \ inches. 

.V to D is the measure of the fashional>lc waist length or IS inches. 

A to E is the measure to the seat line. 

A to F is full length of coat. 

Sciuare out B, C, D, E and F. 

B to K is i breast. 

K to (V is 3 ^ inches. 

I! til j is breast measure. 

j U) i is 2 ^ inches. 

Ci to H is \ breast plus ^ inch. 

Square up from H. 

Square up and down from G. 

Square down from I . 

G to S is 1 inch. 

A to R is ^ breast. 

Rule a line from S to R. 

Square back from 22 finding point Z. 

Place corner of sr^uare at S, let long arm of the square rest on Z. 

Rule a line from S to Z. 

Sqviare up from S to X and (J. 

X to (j is I breast measure 

A to T is I breast measure. 

Rule a line from Q to I. 

L to O is |- waist measure. 

Shape as indicated from Q to I , ( ) and down. 

Rule a line from X to Z. 

T to 1 is f inch. 

22 to 18 is i inch. 

22 to 10 is ^ breast. 

Rule a line from 20 to D. 
C to V is i inch. 
V to 8 is I- breast. 
Square down from 8. 
Shape from A to 1, 1 to 18, and 18 to 10. 

Shape back as indicated from 10, touching the dotted line and down 
to S. 

23 to W is ^ breast. 
L to M is 2 inches. 

M to 2 is on the halves of the waist measure. 

The difference between 2 and V is the waist suppression which we 
will divide into three parts by marking the points 2, 3 and 4. 

7 to 8 is the same amount as from A" to 3. 

7 to 6 is ^ waist. 

G to 5 is same amount as from 2 to 3, and tlie surplus goods is dis- 
posed of at waist. 

Shape from K to 6 and 15; and from K to 5 and 14. 

14 is \ inch below the fashionable waist line. 

Rule a line from 14 to W. 

28 to 9 is I inch. 

Shape as indicated from 9 to 15, and 14 to W. 

Apply seat measure on the two-thirds of the division from 24 to E, 
N to 27, and add to same ^ inch. 



Three- Button Frock 




THREE BUTTON FROCK. Continued. 

!) to 19 is tlie same distance as from 1) to V plus l inch. 

W to 13 is h inch. 

Shape top of skirt as indicated from U to VA. 

The front length of skirt should l)e 1 inch shorter than the distance 
from y to 19. 

Take off \ inch at the top of side body at pomt 10 and shape as mdi- 
catedfrom 10, 7, 9, 27 and down to 19. 

X to Y is same distance as from 1 to 18 minus [ inch. 

Q to P is J breast. 

Rule a line from U to P. 

Shape arm-hole from ^' ti i S and 1 to S. 

Shape shoulder as indicated from Y to X. 

I to 11 is 1 I inches. 

to 12 is 1 inch. 

Shape neckdiole from X to P. 

Shape lapel, front and skirt as per this diagram and finish as repre- 
sented. 

For a small-waisted person take out a V at L as dotted line indicates, 



FROCK COAT FOR CORPULENT FIGURE. 

The following measurements are used for this draft ; 

Natural waist 17^V inches 

Fashionable waist 19 " 
To the seat 26 i " 

FulUength -SB 

Breast 14 

Waist 14 ■• 

vSeat 4.5 " 

To Dr.\ft. 
All systematical points are olitained in the same manner as in the regular Three Button ('utawa\- 
rock. By applying half of the waist measure from L-() you will oiitain the front at waist jirojx-rlv 
The waist suppression is obtained in the same manner as previously explained, the only diri'ercnc( 
/in<4 that you square back from W. 
W to ;i2 IS \ of the waist measure. 

Take out a \' of \ inch at ;!2 and shape the front jiarl as in iuate.l. 

29 to -JN is in tliis ease 11 inclies. being first the baii incli lh;it is taken out in tlie normal and as 
luch more as the \' at .".2 i)lus two seams would mdicate. 

Willi these few cxceTitions a fat man's coat is drafted exactlv the same as the normal. 



Frock for Corpulent Figure 




ENGLISH WALKING COAT. 

Measurements used are as follows. 

Natural waist 17 inches Breast 36 inches 

Fashionable waist 19 " Waist 32 

To the seat 25^ " Seat 37 

Full length 31 " 

TO DRAFT. 

All systematical points are obtained in the same manner as the Three-Button Frock. The changes 
fn.im the Frock to the Walking-Coat are as follows: 

Tliere is nothing taken out at C. 

C" to 8 is J of the breast measure. 

22 to lU is I of the breast measure ])lus .V inch. 

Place flaps on the side as indicated, and either welt or flaps on the breast pocket. 

Tliere is no seam in the middle of the back. 

It will Ijc well to note the waist length should be aljout one inch longer in the iinglish "Walk- 
ing Coat tluui in the regular Frock coat. 

In other details this coat is exactly the same as the Three-Button Frock. 



Eniilish Walking Coat 




DOUBLE-BREASTED FROCK. 

The following are the measurements used; 

Xatural waist Ki', inches Breast 36 incht 

Fashional)le waist - IS '■ Waist 32 

To the seat 25 V " Seat 37 

Fulllenixth 3S 



Square out and down from A. 

A to B is -^ breast measure plus 3 h inches. 

A to C is the measure to the natural waist. 

A to D is the measure to the fashionable waist. 

A to E is the measure to the seat. 

A to F is the full length of coat. 

Sc|uare out B, C, D, E and F. 

B to K is i breast. 

K to G is 3 ^ inches. 

B to J is the breast measure. 

J to I is 2 I inches. 

Square down from T. 

Square up and down from G. 

G to H is |- breast plus ^ inch. 

Square up from H. 

G to S is 1 inch. 

A to R is I of the breast measure. 

Rule a line from S to R. 

Square back from 22, finding point Z. 

Place corner of square at S, let long arm of the same rest (in Z 

Square up from S to X and O. 

Rule a line from S to Z. 

X to O is ^ of the bi-east measure. 

Rule a line from O to I. 

L to O is on the halves of the waist measure. 

Shape as indicated from Q to I, O and down. 

Q to P is J of the breast measure plus h inch. 

23 to W is |- of the breast measure. 

Rule a line from X to Z. 

A to T is ^ of the breast measure. 

T to 1 is t^ inch. 

22 to 18 is j inch. 

22 to 10 is ^ of the breast measure. 

Shape from A to 1, 1 to 18, and 18 to 10. 

C to V is i inch. 

Square down from V. 

Rule a line from Z to V. 

Rule a line from 20 to D. 

V to 8 is ^ of the breast measure. 

Square down from 8. 

Shape back as indicated from 10, touching the dotted line and down 
to 8. 

L to M is 2 inches. 

M to 2 is on the halves of the waist measure. 

The difference between 2 and V is the waist suppression, which is 
divided into three parts as figures 2, 3 and 4 indicate. 

8 to 7 is I of the waist suppression or the same distance as from 3 to V. 

7 to 6 is I of the waist measure. 

6 to 5 is ^ of the waist suppression, or the distance from 2 to 3. 

Point 9 is ;| inch below the fashionalile waist-line. 

Square up from 7. 

..\pply the seat measure on the two-thirds of the division and adil 
to the same f inch from 24 to E and N to 27. 



Double Breasted Frock 




DOUBLE BREASTED FROCK Continued 

RfdiKV thr siilf-l»)(lv 1 int-h at 10 and sliajK' the .suk-lnxly from 
10 1(1 7 and dcwn to '.). 

Slia].r skirt fn.ni !» tn l'?, and down to tlic Imttoni. 

vSliapc from K to (i an<l lo. 

.Slia])c from K to o and 14. 

Draw a line from to 15. 

Point 14 is J inch below the fashionable wuist-line. 

Draw a line from 14 to W. 

vShape as indicateii from 14 to \V. 

Sha]ie top of skirt as shown in the diagram from •> to W and out. 

X to \' is the same distance as from 1 to IS minus \ inch. 

Rule a line from U to P. 

Shape arm-hole, shoulder and neck-hole as indicated. 

Place the corner of square at W, and ixirallel same with i)oint ( ), and 
;(|uarc up to 2(). 

Comn'ct jioint P and 2(1. 

2N to 11 is ;-!', inches. 

() to 12 is 2 :■ mches. 

W to M is 2 tV inches. 

Make the t(_ip of lajjcl 2 '} inches, and sha])e as shown in the 
liagram. 

S(|uare down from fashionable waist-line through point 1.'? to oO. 

"i'A to :!() is i) inches. 

HO to 2(1 is ■ inch. 

Rule a line from 13 to 29 and down. 

9 to 19 is the same distance as from D to E plus i inch. 

13 to 16 is the same distance as from 9 to 19 minus 1 inch. 

Shape bottom as shown in the diagram from 19 to Ki, and finish as 
represented. 



FLARING OF SKIRT. 

The dotted line indicates a normal skirt front. To obtain a full flare at the bottom 
without changing the balance of the skirt make four slashes in a iirojjortionate skirt and s])read 
the same as nnu'li as \-ou wisli at thcboHoin. (Two inches in each slash will gi\c a good full skirl.) 
Place this upon another ])aper and mark oil and you will obtain the desired result. Sku'ts to all frock 
coats should be treated in this manner \\-hen a ])roi)()rtionate skirt is not desired, 



Flaring of Skirt 




int Z. 




LniL-- ; 


rm of the same rest 


calm 


c'fn.mStoZ. 



FULL DRESS COAT. 

.\[easm-es used ;\re as follows: I'lill lent^th 

Natural waist Ki ^. inehes Breast . . ^ 

Fashionable waist IN " Waist . . 

To the seat 25 i " Seat 



S<|uare out and down frnm A. 

A ill l> is ^ breast ])lus .'! ' inclRS. 

A to (" is the natural waist kni;th. 

A lo 1) is the fashionable waist lens 

A lo 1'^ is to the seat. 

A to 1*' is full length' of eoat. 

Square out B, C, D, E and P^. 

B to K is i breast. 

K to G is 3 i inches. 

B to J is the breast measure. 

J to I is 2 ^ inehes. 

vSquare down from I. 

Square up and down from (1. 

G to H is ^ breast plus ^ ineh. 

Square up from H. 

G to S is one inch. 

A to R is f- of the breast measure. 

Rule a line from S to R. 

Square back from 22 findin^f^ 

l^lace corner of square at S, let lont^ arm of the same rest on Z and 
square up from S to X, and O, a 

X to O is }■ breast. 

Rule a'^line from ( ) to I. 

Rule a line from .\ to Z. 

L to (.) is on the halves of the waist measure. 

U to 31 is h inch. 

vShape as indicated from Q to I, 31 and down. 

23 to W is J of the breast measure. 

A to T is ^ breast measure. 

T to 1 is f inch. 

22 to 18 is I inch. 

22 to 10 is -J- breast measure. 

Shape from A to 1, 1 to LS, and IS to 10. 

C to V is i inch. 

V to 8 is |- breast measure. 

Square down from V. 

Rule a line from V to Z. 

Square down from 8. 

Rule a line from 20 to D. 

L to M is 2 \ inehes. 

M to 2 is ^ waist measure. 

The difference between 2 and \' is the waist su])pression and is d 
vided in three parts. 

S to 7 is the same amount as from V to 3. 

7 to (i is \ of the waist measure. 

(i to ") is the same distance as from 3 to 2. 

A^iply seat measure on the twoAliirds of the divisi(ins and add 
inehes from 24 to E and N to 2.5 

Sweep from 30 to 9 using ])oint 10 as the pivot. 

l)ra,w a line from to 15. 



Pull Dress Coat. 




14 is 1 inch l)cl,.\v the fashionable waist line. 

Draw a line I'n im 14 tn W and shape as indicated from 14 to W. 

Take ', inch oil of side hody at 10 and shape tlie liack from 10 to 8 
and :]{). 

vShape the sidedxHly from 10 to 7 and U, 25 and down. 

Shape from K to 6 and 15, and from K to 5 and 14, 

9 to 19 is the same distance as from 30 to 17 plus \ incli. 

W to 29 is 1, inch. 

29 to ;!2 is ;l of the distance l.etween W and 9. 

l(i to 19 is also :'| of the distance between W an<l 9. 

Draw a hne from 32 to l(i. 

Shape topof skirt as indicated from 9 to 32 and 29. 

29 to 28 is 1 i inches. 

Shape strap and skirt as shown in the diagram. 

O to P is -^ breast measure plus 1 } inches. 

Rule a line from U to !'. 

X to ^' is the same distance as from 1 to 18 minus ] inch. 

Shajie armdiole, shoulder and neckdiole as indicated from 10 to S, 
and \' and X to P. 

Place corner of square at W and let long arm of the same rest on 31 
and square up to 26. 

Connect point P and 2(1 by a straight line. 

W to 27 is 1 i inches. 

Pule a line from () to 26 and out. 

.Make the width of the lapel 2 inches at the top, 2 ^ inches at tiie 
l)reast, and 1 4 inches at the bottom. 

Shape lapel as indicated in this diagram and finish as represented. 

FULL DRESS COAT WITHOUT STRAP AND LAPEL SEAMS. 

.Measures used : 

Natural waist 17 inches 
I'iishionablc waist 1 8. \ inches. 

To the seat 26 

Full length 39 " 

Breast 37 " 

Waist 33 " 

Seat 38 

TO DRAFT. 

-Ml systematical ]ioints arc obtained in the same manner as in the regular full dress coat, except 
that there are no strap or lapel scams visible after the coat is finished, inasmuch as the lapel and 
strap are attached to the front part. 

W to 28 is 1 \ inches. 

28 to 32 is \ of the distance from 28 to 9. 

Take out a sn'.all \' on the front part at 32. 

Shape tlie front ])art as indicated from 14 to 2S. 

Shape skirt as indicated from 9 to 32. 

JMud point 26 in the same manner as in the previous draft an<l make the width of the lapel at the 
top and breast tlie same as in the former coat, but make the lapel from 2S out 1.^ inches. 

If a ver\ sleek fitting waist is desired take out a fish as indicated in the front jjart and flnisli as 
represented. 

•10 



Full Dress Coat without Strap and Lapel Seams 




DEGREES OF VARIATION. 

In daily jiraflice one cnnu's in i.'(inlact with many figures wlm \-ary in aliiiuik' frnni the ntirnial 
f( irni. Scjme greater and some less than others 1 nit all wirying from tlie n( irinal position to some extent. 
Tlie degree of this ^•ariation must be determined by a eareful sur\-e\- of the figure b\' tlie eve. 

The variations can all be classed in three degrees, namely, first, second and third degrees. 

The first degree meaning an inclination of ^ inch or slightly varied. 

Tlic second an inclination of -ij inch or medium. 

'I'lie third an inclination of \ inch or an extreme variation. 

.Ml \ariations should thus come under one of these degrees. 

In i)lacing the measures in tlie measure ]>or)k always stipulate the degree of disprojiortion of your 
client. 

STOOPING AND ERECT. 

iMrst lay out the ])roportionate outline as indicated by A, P) and M, the front of scye at G and the 
front at I in the usual way. 

bet us now for an example make an outline for a stooping subject in the third degree. 

Raise your point from R to 2, h inch and from 2 to 1, J inch. 

Draw a line from S to 1. 

Square back from E, finding point T. 

Now place the corner of the square at S, let long arm of the same rest 
on T and square up from S and you will find point 5 and N on the clotted 
line. 

5 to N is l of the breast measure. 

Rule a line from N to L 

N to 9 is the same distance as from 2 to ] . 

Rule a line from 9 to S. 

9 to 6 is 1^ of the breast measure. 

Draw a line from 1 to T. 

1 to 16 is \ of the breast measure. 

Rule a line from 16 to 6 and 6 to T. 

9 to O is J of the breast measure. 

Rule a line from V to O. 

'lliiswill ]iroducc the outline for a stooping subject in the third degree 

In tliis outline (i is your shoulder ])oiiit and Ki \'(iur height at. neck. 

I':rI'CT in the third degree. 

Reduce your point from R to 3, ^ inch. 

3 to 4 is |- inch. 

Rule a line from S to 4. 

Square back from F finding point D. 

Place the corner of square at S, let long arm of the same rest on D 
and square up from S, finding point 7 and L on the dotted lines. 

7 to L is I of the breast measure. 

Rule a line from I to L and up. 

L to M is the same distance as from 3 to 4. 

Rule a line from M to S. 

M to S is ;, of the breast measui-e. 

Rule a line from 4 to D. 

I to 1 7 is y, of the breast ineasure. 

Rule a line from 8 to 17 and S to D. 

AI to J is J of the breast measure. 

Rule a line from Y to J. 

In this case 8 would be your shoulder point and 17 your height at neck. 

It will be clearly seen from the illustrated points 11, 10 and 14 how 
much \-ou have stooped and erected your subject from the normal. 
42 



Stooping and Erect. 



njA 





C()iMI51N'ATl()X OF STOOPING AND ROUND, ERECT AND ELA' 



First lay out your proportionate outline in the usual manner. G 
indicates the proportionate front of scye, l:)ut if your subject is round, ad- 
vance from G to 12. Let us say that we advance in the third degree or 
^ inch. 

Come up from 12 to 10, 1 inch or the same as from G to S. 

Stoop the back at R, 2 and 1 in the same manner as explained in the 
Stooping and Erect Diagram, and draw a line from 10 to 1. 

With these changes from G to 12, the remainder would be just the same 
as explained for the stooping subject. 

Let us make the same subject fiat in the 3rd degree. 

Come back from G to 13, | inch. 

13 to 11 is linch. 

Make the same changes at R as for an erect subject. 

Rule a line from 11 to 4. 

All other changes are the same as explained in former explanations 
of Erect Diagram. 




Sl.ol'lXC, .\.\l) SOLAKI-:. 



Ill 



nianiier. 

■i;ret\ go down fmni 



mil s]ia])C" vour arm- 



Pirst lay out your projjortionatc draft 

If vour subject is sloping, for exanijili 
(i to^D'.Unch. 

S(iuare back fnmi 1). 

Reduce vour Itack fmni •» to "i, ', inch and vvi 
y to 7, .\ inch. 

Shape your l)ack as dulled line indicates from 
hole down to the 1) line and fnun 7 tn S and 7 to X. 

Shape your back from 1 to .V 

For a square subject do just tlu' o]iposile. 

Come up from G to K, l inch. 

Scjuarc back from E. 

Raise the back from 9 to 4. 

Raise the shoulder from V to (5. 

Shajie the back as dotted line indicates I'n.m 4. 

Shape the armdiole as the dotted line indicates to the li line, and from 
ti t.iSanil () to X. 

Shaj.c the back frnm 1 U> I, 



CO-MHIXATIOX nl' STOOFIXC, RoUXl) AND SLOPING. 

All points in this diagram have been prex'inusly explained in the stooji- 
ing, in the round and in the sloping. 

Lay out yoiu" normal outline. 

Let us assume that the sul>jeet is stooping, round and sloping, in 
the third degree. 

(i is normal front of scye. 

Ct to 7 is Hnch. 

7 to S is ^ inch. 

Square back from 8. 

R to 2 is ^ inch. 

2 to 3 is i inch. 

Rule a line from S to 3. 

Place corner of square at S and let l(jng arm of the same rest on Z and 
square up finding point X and 0. 

X to Q is -J- of the breast measure. 

Rule a line from I to O. 

Q to 4 is the same distance as from 2 to 3. 

Rule a line from 4 to S. 

Rule a line from 3 to Z. 

3 to 10 is ye Breast. 

4 to 5 is I of the breast measure. 
Rule a line from 5 to 10. 

22 to 9 is ^inch. 

Shape from 1 to IS. 

Shape the arm-hole as indicated. 

A' to 6 is i-inch. 

Shape from 6 to 5. 

4 to P is I breast measure. 

Rule a line from U to P. 

Shape neck-hole from 5 to P. 

C to 13 is ^ inch. 

13 to 14 is i the distance l)et\veen G and 7. 

Rule a hue from Z to 14 giving more waist suiiiiression to a round 
subject. 

ST( )OPIXG, ROUND AND SOLARl-:. 

First lay out your proportionate outline. 

Let us assume that the subject is stooping, round and sc[uare in the 
third degree. 

G is'the normal front of scye. 

G to 7 is ^2 inch. 

7 to 8 is ^ inch. 

Square back from 8. 

R to 2 is i inch. 

2 to 3 is ^ inch. 

Rule a line from S to 3. 

Place corner of s(iuare at S, let long arm rest on Z and square up from 
S, finding point X and ( ). 
X to O is i l)reast. 
Rule a line from I to O. 
Q to 4 is the same distance as from 2 to 3. 
Rule a line from 4 to S and from 3 to Z. 
4 to 5 is ^ of the breast measure. 

3 to 10 is }i Breast. 

Rule as the dotted line indicates back from 5 to 10. 
22 to 9 is I inch. 
A' to 6 is ^inch. 

Shape back, arm-liolc, shoulder and neck liole as indicated. 
Cto 13 is Jr inch. 

13 to His h of the distance between Gand 7. 

Rule a line from Z to 14 making more of a waist suppression for a round 
suliject. 




Stooping Round and Sloping. 




Sloping Round and Square. 



COMBTXATIOV OF ERECT. FLAT .WD SlJUARE. 

E;iy out your normal outline and erect and square a subject and 
flatten the back in the third degree. 
G is the normal front of scye. 
G to 7 is ^ inch. 
7 t(i S is J inch. 
I\ l(j "i is ^ inch. 

2 to 3 is ^ inch. 

Rule a line from S to 'A. 
Rule a line from 3 to Z. 

3 to 10 is ye Breast measure. 

Place corner of square at S, let long arm of same rest on Z and square 
up from S to X and Q. 

Rule a line from Q to I . 

O to 4 is the same distance as from 2 to 3. 

Rule a line from S to 4. 

4 to 5 is 1^ of the breast measure. 

Rule as dotted line indicates from 5 to 10. 
K to 9 is ^ inch . 

Y to 6 is ^ inch . 

Shape top of back and l)ack-shoulder from 1 to IS. 
Shape the armdiole, front shoulder and neck-hole as indicated. 
C to 13 is I inch. 

13 to 14 is ^ of the distance from G to 7, reducing the waist sup- 
pression for an erect subject. 

COMBINATION OF ERECT, FLAT A.\ I) SEOPIXG. 

Lay (lut ydur normal dutline and let us erect and slnpe the subject and 
flatten the back in the third degree. 
G is the normal front of scye. 
G to 7 is J inch. 
7 to 8 is iinch. 
R to 2 is* inch. 

2 to 3 is i inch. 

Rule a line from S to 3. 

Place corner of square at S, let long arm of the same rest on Z. 

Square up from S to X and O. 

X to Q is ^ of the breast measure. 

Rule a line from I to Q and up. 

Q to 4 is the same distance as from 2 to 3. 

Rule a line from 4 to S. 

4 to 5 is 1^ of the breast measure. 

Rtile a line from 3 to Z. 

3 to 10 is ^ Breast measure. 

Rule as dotted line indicates from 5 to 10. 
K to 9 is ^ inch. 

Y to 6 is Hnch. ,( 
Shape top of back as indicated. 

Shape back-shoulder from 1 to IS, arm-hole, shoulder and neck- 
hole as indicated in the diagram. 

C to 13 is i inch. 

13 to 1-4 is ,V the distance between ( 'i and 7. 

Rule a line from Z to 14, making the waist suppression less for an erect 
subject. 



Erect Flat and Square 




LONG AND SHORT NECK. 

Lay out your draft in Xhv usual manner. 

Point A at the toji of l)ack and A at the shoulder i^oint represents the 
normal. 

Should your subject have a Innt^; neck, in the seeond degree, raise your 
])oint from A to C and 1 to o, ^ ineli each, mi the hack ])art. 

Ad\-ance your ])oint from A to C and from 1 to o, each ^ inch on the 
front part. 

I"or a short neck work just the opposite way. 

Reduce the toii of back from A to B and 1 to "2, 'i inch and come back 
from A to B. i inch i n the front. 

Reduce the kqx-1 front from 1 to 2, i inch. 

Make no other changes for long or short neck. 



NARROW AND BROAD SHOULDERS 

Lay your usual draft as indicated and if broad shoulders are desired, 
say, for example, in the third degree, add from 1) to E on the l)ack part 
\ inch and D to E on the front part h inch. 

Shape as indicated from 1 to \l on the back jiart and from li to X on 
the front part. 

Extend the lireadth on the back and front to E as indicated. 

If a narrow shoulder is desired do just the opposite way. 

Reduce the back part from 1) to C and D to C on the front part, each 

i inch. 

Shape as indicated from 1 to C on the back part and from C to X on 
the front part. 

Reduce the back and the front shoulder at C. 




Long and shorty Neck. 




Narrow and broad Shoulders. 



ACTUAL MEASUREMENT. 



In using actual measurrmt-nl or shnulder measures, sometimes called shoi-t measures, I wish to say 
now, that a fit in this case deiiends enlireK' upon your measures, and would therefore advise the student 
to use proportions and variations to begin with ; while you may take actual measures or shoulder meas- 
ures, check same by your proportions and variations. The reason I ask you to do so is this : that there 
are ver^ few who are able to take the correct measures, it requires a man of long experience in the 
business and a man who has a thorough knowledge of proportions ; howe^■er, if a man is thoroughly 
posted in that respect actiial measurements will be of great value in connection with proportions and 
variations. 

The diagram representing the liack view illustrates the various points where measures are taken. 

Measui-e from :V to B ; is the depth of scye. 

A to C is the waist length. 

..V to D is the length to the seat. 

E is the ordinary length of the sack coat. 

I to J is the width of back. 

Place your square imdcr the arm as indicated in the front view ; see that the sciuare is well 
up to the arm and close to the body. 

Find your sleeve length on the scjuare from G to K 

The strap measure is from G on the front \-iew to A on the back view. 

Over-shoulder measure is from G on the front view to B on the back-A'iew. 

The closing measure is from G on the front view to H on the back view. 

The blade measure is from Cx on the front view under the arm to B on the l;)ack ^■iew. 

Take your breast, waist and seat measure and you have all the measures necessary. 
All measures should be taken medium, neither too loose nor too snug. A good deal of care should 
be exercised in taking the shoulder measures, as [ inch more or less to the blade, depth of scye or strap 
measure will throw the coat off a great deal. 

It will be noted I speak hesitatingly about short measures and while I am personally using them 
with good success, I merely caution the beginners, as the prevailing idea seems to be that when these 
measures have been taken a coat is bound to fit, which may be the case if the measures have been cor- 
cretly taken, but if you have made a mistake in measurement to a srriall extent it will cause an alteration. 



Actual Measurement. 




APPLICATION OF ACTUAL MEASURES. 

Measurements visctl as f( ill( >ws : 

Depth of scye 9 inches 

Blade 11 

.Strap 12 •' 

( )ver-shmil(kT 17 

Closing i;u " 

Width of liaek 7 " on llie hall ..f tlie hack. 

Ih-east HI) 

To Draft. 

A to 6 is the depth of scye. 

6 to B is i" inch. 

B to 8 is the blade measure. 

S to G is H inches. 

B to J is the breast measure. 

J to I is 2J inches. 

Square down from I . 

Square up from G. 

G to L is i of the breast measure plus \ inch. 

Square up from L. 

Gto Sis 1 inch. 

^\ to R is ^ of the breast measure. 

Rule a line from S to R. 

Square back from K, fitiding jioint Z. 

Place corner of square at S, let long arm of the same rest on Z am 
sf|uare up to X and O. 

A to T is ^ of the breast measure. 

T to 1 is f inch. 

K to 3 is I inch. 

L to 2 is ly^l6 of the breast measure. 

Shape from A to 1, and 1 to 3. 

Apply strap measure from S to Q. 

9 is half-way between T and 3. 

Apply over-shoulder measure from 6 to 9 and S to U. 

Apply closing measure from L to K and S to Y. 

3 to 4 is 1^ inches. 

Z to 5 is 1^ inches. 

Apply width of back from 4 to 5 and add \ inch. 

Shape from 3 to 2. 

Rule a line from Q to I . 

Q to P is J of the breast measure. 

Rule a line from U to P. 

X to \' is the same distance as from 1 to 3 minus | inch. 

Shape arm-hole and shoulder according to points ol)taincd bv mcas 
ures. 

Sha])c ncck-hdlc, extend your regulaiiiin bultMn-staiid and shape llic 
fn.nt. 

It will be noted thai llie back has been drawn in c(imiccli..n willi llu 
shoulder so as to show exactly how the measure should l)e a])]>lied ; this i; 
unnecessary in drafting and has only been done in order to make it more 
comprehensive to the student. 

5 + 



Application of Actual Meastiritieiit. 





THE NORMAL SLEEVE. 

The slce\"e is always cut acccrding to the size of the arm-hole. If an arm-liole for example measures 
IS inches I would use IS on the divisions for finding my points with the excei)ti( m of the length. 
The following are the measurements used : 

Armdiole 18 inches, Length IS inches 

TO DRAFT. 

Scjuare out and down from A. 
A to B is 1/12 of the arm-hole. 
A to C is \ of the arm-hole. 
C to D is 1 inch. 
D to E is li of the arm-hole. 
D to 1 is the sleeve length. 
1 to 2 is H inches. 
S<|uare<m'tB,(', 1), E and 2. 

(" to I'" is (in the hah-t'S nl" the arnidmle measure, 
i; In 1 is 1/12. 
.\ to II is ,1- 
I- lo (; is 1/iG. 

Ivule a line from F to C anel G to E. 

1 to 3 is i of the width desired at the haml ])lus I inch. 
Shape top of sleeve from C to I, H and V. 
Shape under-sleeve as indicated from C to G. 
Shape as indicated in the diagram from F to 3, G to o and 1 to 3. 

Shape from C to 1 taking out ^ inch from the base line as indicated in the diagram and finish as 
represented. 

56 





I 

^ ^-^-^ ^ 3 1 2 

SLEEVE WITH INSIDE SEAM CUT WELL UNDER. 




All systcniali^'.-il ]i:)iiUs ;ia' nJiUiiiud in the same nianiUT as in tiie 
rn-nrf is that 1 cxlcml i>an m,' umkT sk'cw l< ahe l< 'p slccw and takesa 
tluTcioiv fnun In 7 is 1 ^ inches. 

l(. (i is LA inches. 

1 li) .") is l\ inches. 
1 to 4 is l\ inches. 

Rule a line from 7 to o and (i to 4 and sliajie as indicated I'rnm 7 to 
L is half wav between 1 and J). 
S(|uare (Hit from L. 

I'^xti'nd as much fmni the construction line at K as you take olT 
line at L. 

There are hm ..liu'r ehanL-es In mi the normal draft. 



d sleeve. The only <lil 
iMunt ciff the under'sleex 



d (itM4. 



im the outside construction 



SLEEVE FOR NARROW AND BROAD SHOULDERS 



To Draft. 
This sleeve is <lra\vn e.vai'tiv the same as anv other sh 
cutting a narrow shouldered coat 1 woukl extend as much in pr 
my shoulder. Note dotted Une from C, I, H and F. 

If cutting a coat with broad shoulders I would reduce the to]i of sleev 

lers. 



with the exception that il 
tion at the top as 1 have i 

the dotted line inc 



projiortionate with the broatlness I ha\-e extended to thi' sh< 

SLEEVE FOR NORMAL, STOOPING AND ERECT. 



I were 
i.luced 

licates, 



)R.\I 



.m .\. 



exph 
he \\ i 



Sipiare out and do 

.\ to 15 is 1 12 (.f the arnvhole. 

A to (■ is I of the arm-hole. 

(' to I is the sleeve length. 

( )litain all other points exactly the same 

Should your subject cany his arms forwa 
ihe front line would be drawn as indicated C to 2. 

1 to 2 is on an average of ] inch. 

Should the subject be erect and cany his arms liack mark 
construction line. 

This diagram exiilains itself, as it will be clearly seen that the distance is greater from F to 
it is from F to 1 , and the ilistance less from F to 3 than from F to 1. 



(|m 



greater distance from I' to I, hence 

1 inch from 1 too and make that your 
2 tlian 




RAGLAN SLEE\'E. 

cutting a raglan sleeve I use ^V of the size of the coat on the divisions for finding my points, 
if my coat would be 40 I would cut a 20 sleeve. 



To Draft. 



Square out and down from 

Square up from D. 

D to C is jV of the size. 

C to B is 1-. 

B to A is I 

D to E is 1 inch. 

E to F is Jf of the size. 

E to 1 is the length of the 

1 to 2 is 1^ inches. 

G is ^ way between 1 and 1- 

Square out A, B, C, D, E. G 

D to H is on the halves of t 

Rvile a line from H to I). 

H to I is 1/16 of the size 

B to K is 1 



slee%'( 



A to L is i 

K to J is 1/12. 

L to V is J inch. 

Rule a line from H to J. 

Rule a line from K to L. 

Shape as indicated from L to K 

Shap from V, J to H. 

Rule a line from I tf) F. 



C and D. 



Shape 


undt 


r-slcc'.-c 


from 


I) t 


> I. 






1 to;! 


s ',..1 


Ihewid 


thdch 


nvd 


iHlld 


i;ni 


1 plus .line 


1 lu-l 


IS 1 1 


inclies. 












1 to .") 


is 1 1 


inches. 












Sliajic 


as in 


(licated 


1 r< im 


1) t< 


-1 and 


1) 


to 5. 


X to 


\- IS 


', incli. 












Shape 


from 


H to \ 


and 


3. 








Shape 


from I to Y 


and :i 


, and finish 


as 


represente 




SLEEVE WITH ONE SEAM. 



This sk 
1 stvlc 1 



;'ve nvA\ he 
jiiuiivs it, es 



■ a no\c 
ulsters. 



liowever it 



Siiuare out and down Irom .\. 

A to J5 is 1, 12 of the arm-hole. 

A to (' is -\ of the arm-hole. 

C to D is 1 inch. 

I) to E is I of the arm-hole. 

]") to 1 is the len.ijth of the sleeve. 

1 to 2 is Ih inches. 

Square out and back from R. 

Square back from 1). 

Square back and forth from F. 

Square back and forth from 2. 

(■ to I- and (' to .-) are each ■', of the 



rule a 1 



me trom I t< 



cither an old-timer oi 
heavy overcoats and 
To Draft. 

Rule a line from l-" to C 

.5 to 6 is 1/lG of the arm-hole. 

Rule a line from 6 to E. 

Square down from 5 and square down from F. 

B to V is 1/12 of the arm-hole and A to L is {. 

K to T is 2 inch. 

to Y is \ inch. 

1 to 3 is i of the width desired at hand ])lus \ incl 
1 to 4 is the same distance as from 1 to 'A. 
Shape as indicated from 6 to C, \'. L and P. 
Shape from F to T and 3. 

arm-hole. Shape from (i to ^' and 4. 

Shape from 4 to 1 and 1 to o. 



plae, 



om > 
s the 



our seam 



Ivxtend 



•11 un. 



This indicates the regular sleeve but if you wisli ti 
at the hand proceed as the dotted lines indicate. 

B to S is 1\ inches. Squai'c back and forth f 

Reduce your under sleeve from L to X as much as the distance Irom I- t( 
Draw a line from 7 to T and down to I. 

Reduce your undersleeve as much from 4 to J as the distance from '.i to 1. 
qie from A to Y and J and finish as represented. 

59 



It Un- 



as mdic-atei 



Sh 



DOUBLE BREASTED ULSTER. 

j\leasures used as follows : 

Waist length 19 inches. Ihvast -15 inches 

To the seat 27 " Waist -11 " 

Full length 49 " Seat 4(j " 

TO DRAFT. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is J- breast, plus 3^ inches. 

A to C is the waist length. 

A to D is the seat. 

A to F is length of coat. 

Square out B, C, D and F. 

B to Wis ^breast. 

W to G is 3^ inches. 

B to J is the breast measure. 

J to I is '2\ inches. 

G to FI is \ breast plus \ inch. 

Square down from 1 . 

Square up and down from G. 

Square up from H. 

H to F is iV of the breast measure. 

F to 2 is 1 finches. 

Square down from 2. 

G to S is one inch. 

A to R is ^ breast. 

Rule a line from S to R. 

Square back from K finding point Z. 

Place comer of Square at S and let long arm of the same rest on Z 

Square up from S to X and 0. 

X to O is -l of the breast measure. 

I<;ule :riine from Otol. 

\iu\v a line fnmi X In Z. 

A to T is I In-east. 

T to 1 is i; inch. 

K to IS is ;:; inch. 

Shape from A to 1, 1 to IS and IS to 2. 

O to P is I' breast measure. 

Rule a line from U to P. 

X to Y is the same distance as from 1 to IS minus t\ inch. 

Take out -| inch at 2. 

Shape armhole from Y to S and 2 to S. 

Shape shoulder from Yto X. 

Shape neckhole from X to P. 

L to () is V w-aist. 

Ajiph seat measure on tlie j on the di\-isi()n. ]ilus .'! inches from. T) 
to 1) and'X to 9. 

vShanc as indicate<l from ( ) to I, (). 14 and down, and sliajie 2, 9 and 
<lown. 

Sweep from 11 to 12 using point 2 as a iii\-ot. 

Sweep forth from 12, using jxiint X as the pivot. 

Extend an extra incli in tlie front length and shape from 12 to 15. 

Take out a X' of 1 incli at P as indicated. 

Extend the front from 1 to 7, G to S, 14 to i;', and at the b<Mtnni I 
inches. 

Make top of lai)el ;in a\erage of 'Al inelies. 

SliaiR' laiK'l and front as indicated in Uiis diagram and llnisli as rei)r('- 



THE COLLAR. ToDkai 

,Sc)uare from 2 to ('. and 2 to ?>. 
2 to 3 is 2^ inches. 
4 to 5 is 3-| inches. 

2 to 6 is the length of the collar. 
6 to 4 is 1|^ inches. 

3 to 9 is 3^ inches. 

Shape from 6 to 3, from 6 to 4 and 5. 
Shape from 4 to 3 and 5 to 9 and 3. 
60 



Double Breasted Ulster. 




THE RAGLAN 

The following are the measurements used : 

Waist length IS^ inelies. 

To the seat 27 

Full length 46 " 

Breast 44 

Waist 40 " 

Seat 45 " 

To Draft. 
Square out and down from A. 
A to B is I breast plus 3^ inches. 
A to C is the waist length. 
A to D is the measure to the seat. 
A to E is the full length of coat. 
Square out B, C, D and E. 
B to G is -?r breast plus 3i inches. 
B to J is the full breast measure. 
J to I is 2^ inches. 
G to H is I breast plus ^i inches. 
Square down from I . 
Square up and down from G. 
Square up from H. 
G to S is 1 inch. 
A to R is J. breast. 
Rule a line from S to R. 
Square back from K finding point Z. 

Place corner of square at S, let long arm of the same rest on Z. 
Square up from S to X and O. 
X to Q is -/; breast. 
Rule a line from Q to 1 . 
Shape as indicated from U to 1 . 
Rule a line from X to Z. 
Q to P is -J- breast measure. 
Rule a line from U to P. 
A to T is ^ breast measure. 
T to 1 is i| inch. 
H to F is one inch. 
Rtile a line from X to F. 

2 to 3 is li inches. 
H to W is Ir breast. 

3 to M is ^- breast. 

Rule -a line from M to W, 1 3 and down. 

C to V is I inch. 

Rule a line from Z to V and down to the bottom. 

Rule a line from H to 3. 

Shape back as indicated in the diagram from .\ to 1, 1 down to W, 
reducing the back about -J inch at K and ^ inch below the breast line 
at W. 

Shape front as indicated from X to S and W, coming i inch below the 
breast line at W. 

L to O is on the halves of the waist measure. 

Shape from I to O, 7 and down to the bottom. 

Apply the seat measure on the two-thirds of the division plus 3} 
inches, 13 to D and N to 14. 

Rule a line from W to 14 down to the bottom. 

Sweep back from 11 to 12 using point AV as the pivot. 

S\\ eel I 1 1 nt 1i from 1 2 to S, using point X as the pivot. 

S III !) IS i.nr in.clT. 

1 to 4, C) to [), 7 to 0, 9 to 10 are each 2h inches. 

Shape neckhole front and bottom as indicated, and finish as re- 
presented . 



THE RAGLAN. 




INVERNESS. 



Measurements are used as follows: 

Waist lens^th IS^ inches 

Full length 45 " 

Breast 40 " 

Waist o() 

Seat 41 ■' 
luill length of cape over the shdulder 

down to the hand ;^1 

To Draft. 

Square out and down from A. 
A to B is J- breast plus 3^ inches. 
A to C is the waist length. 
A to I ) is to the seat. 
A to E full length of the garment. 
Square out B, C, D and E. 
B to K is on the hah'es of the breast measure. 
K to G is 3^^ inches. 
B to J is the breast measure. 
J to I is 2} inches. 
G to H is I breast i)lus \ inch. 
Square clown from I . 
Square up and down from G. 
Square up from H. 
G to S is 1 inch 

^V to R is I of the breast measure. 
Rule a line from S to R. 
Square back from bS finding jxiint Z. 
Place corner of sciuare at S. let long arm 
of same rest on Z and square u\i from S to X anrl 0. 
Rule a line from S to Z. 
X to Q is -J breast. 
Rule a line from O to I. 
Rule a^ line from X to Z. 
L to O is I waist. 

Draw a hne from Q to I, and down. 
Q to P is :\ breast. 
A to T is i breast. 



j T to 1 is s inch. 

C to 8 is I inch. 

Draw a line from Z to N and tlown to F. 

D to 10 is ,^ breast plus 3 ', inches. 

Rule a line from H to 10 and down to 11. 

Shape as indicated in diagram from A to 1, 1 to H, 
: and miss ^ inch at IS. 

H to 5 is I of the breast measure. 

5 to 6 is 1 inch. 

Shape armdiole from U to 6, coming 1 inch for- 
ward of the balance line. 

Apply the seat measure on the two-thirds of 
the divisions plus 3| inches from 10 to D and N to 9. 

Rule a line from 3 to 9 and down. 

Shape as indicated from 6 to 9 and down to 12. 

Sweep back from 11 using point 5 as the pivot. 

Sweep forth from 12 using point X as the pivot. 

Extend an extra inch to front length at 7. 

Extend the button-stand from I to 28, O to 31, 
and 7 to 15 of 2[ inches in each case. 

Shape slKHildcr from U to X. 

Shape neck-hule frum X to P. 

Shape front and bottom as indicated and the 
body of coat is finished. 

CAPE. 

X to 2 is the same distance as from 1 to 18. 

2 to Y is 1 f inches. 

Rule a line from Y to B and out. 

Apply the measure of the length of the cape 
from X to 2, Y and down to 9. 

Sweep forward from 9 to 30, using point X as the 
pivot. 

Reduce the length of the cape at front 4- inch 
from the sweeping point. 

Take out a V between 2 and Y. 

Shape the neck-hole and front the same as the 
coat and finish as represented. 



Inverness 





30^29 



KNIGHT'S TEMPLAR COAT. 



Measurements 


used : 


Natural waist 


164. inche 


P'^ashionable waist 


18 " 


To the seat 


25+ " 



I' ull length 


:V.) inches 


Breast 


;5(i 


Waist 


32 " 


Seat 


37 " 



TO DRAFT. 

This coat is drafted in the same manner as any ordinary frock. 

The skirt is drawn in the same way as the Prince Albert, notliing being taken out at ^V 

A button-stand of 1^ inches is extended at P, I, O and ^^' 

There are 11 button-holes at the front and a standing collar 
of the skirt, extending in length n of the back-skirt, with nuv 
lower end. 

In all other respects this coat is produced in the same way a 



idicated, also a side-edge at the fold 
(in at the waist and another at the 

■gular frock coat. 




;>!) iiK'lies 



THE CLERICAL COAT. 

1 he following arc the measurements used : 

Natural waist 16^ inches l'ulllen"th 

FashionaVjlc waist IS " i^reast " 

To the seat 25i " Waist :]> 

Seat liT 

,,, . TO DRAFT. 

All s> stematical pomts are obtained in the same manner as in the regular frock coat 
out at \V '^ """^ ^ '■' ^''"^ "'"'"'' ""^ '" """ ordinary Prince Albert Coat, nothin.si 

Extend the button stand at P, I, O and W of U inches 

1 his coat has 7 button holes and a standing collar as indicated in the diagram 

in all other respects it is cut upon the same principle as the single-breasted Princ 



c Albert. 



THE CASSOCK. 



Measurements as follows : 




'Mi inches 


Natural waist 18 inches 


Breast 


Fashionable waist 20 


AVaist 


32 " 


Full length 52 " 







To Draft. 
Square out and down from A. 
A to B is ^ breast plus 3^ inches. 
A to C is the natural waist length. 
A to D is the fashionable waist length. 
A to E is full length of garment. 
Square out B,C,D and E. 
B to K is i breast. 
KtoCTis3Hnches. 
B to J is the breast measure, 
y to I is 21 inches. 
G to H is 1 breast plus h inch. 
Square down from I . 
Square up and down (mm ( >. 
Square up from If. 
G to S is 1 inch. 
A to R is -J- breast measure. 
Rule a line from S to R. 
Square back from N finding point Z. 
Place corner of square at S, let long arm rest on Z. 
Square up from S to X and O. 
Rule a hne from S to Z. 
X to Q is i breast measure. 
Rule a line from Q to I. 
Rule a Hne from X to Z. 
A to T is ^- breast. 
T to 1 is ^i inch. 

N to 18 is J inch. 

N to 10 is -J; breast. 

Shape as indicated from A to 1, 1 to 18, an.l IS to 10. 

C to 8 is i waist measure. 

Square up and down from 8. 

L to O is on the halves of the waist measure. 

Shape from Q to I, to 23 and W. 

Square from 23 down to the bottom. 

L to M is 2 inches. 

II to 2 is on the halves of the waist measure. 

8 to 7 is the same distance as from C to 3. 

7 to 6 is i of the waist measure. 

5 to 6 is the same amount as from 2 to 3. 

V to 24 is f of an inch. 

K to F is 11 inches. 

Shape from F to 5 and 14. 

Shape from F to 6 and 15. 

Reduce the side bodv i inch at 10. 

Shape the back from 10 to 8 and 25. 

Shape the side-body from 10 to 7, V and 24. 

Rule a Hne from 20 to D and down to 1 1. 

Rule a Hne from A to 25 and down to 18. 
Rule a line from 12 to V and down to 26. 
D to 11 is the same distance as from D to E. 

25 to 18 is the same distance as from D to E. 
1 1 to 1 9 and 18 to 1 7 are each 2h inches. 

V to 2(1 is the same distance as from 25 to IS iilus ... 

26 to 27 IS 2 I inches. 

23 to \\' is ,', < .f tlic 1 ireast measure. 

14 is ] inch below the fashionalile waist line. 



Cassock Coat 




THE CASvS(.)CK. (Continued.) 

Shape from 24 to 15 and 14 to W and 13. 
Shape top of skirt from V to \^' and 13. ' I 

(J and P is J breast measure. 
Rule a line from U to P. 

X to Y is the same distance as from 1 to IS minus '; inch. 
Shape arm-hole, shoulder and neck-hole, 10 to S, Y to S, Y to X and 
X t<j P, as indicated in the diagram. 

Extend a button-stand all the way down of It inches. 

13 to 16 is 1 inch less than the distance from \' to 26. 

Shape from 19 to E, E t(_i 17 and from 27 to 16 and finish as represented. 



THE SURTOUT. 

he fi (111 )wing are the measurements used : 

Natural waist 17 inches 

Fashionable waist 10 
To the seat 26^- " 

Full length of coat 46 " 
Breast 40 " 

Waist 36 " 

Seat 41 " 

T(l DRAFT. 
This coat is drafted in the same manner as the Doul)le-Breasted Prince 
Albert coat, with a few exceptions. 
Extend i inch at 22. 

Shape as indicated from fashionable waist length where button is 
placed and down. 

The lapel from 12 to 15 is 4 inches in width. 
W to 13 is 2:^ inches. 

'idle skirt to this coat is normal as it now is drafted, 1 mt sIk )uld l)e llared 
to some extent, according to the prevailing style, as shown in the diagram 
of Flaring of Skirt. 

It will also be noted that in place of having U inches between the 
natural and fashionable waist line we have 2 inches. 



The Surtout 




SINGLE-BREASTED NEW MARKET 



.Mc;isuri'ments 


used : 






Natural waist 


17 inches 




I'^ashionalile waist 


lU 




To the seat 


2()i " 




Full length of coat 


4S 




Breast 


40 " 




Waist 


36 " 




Seat 


41 " 




TO DRAFT. 


All systematic; 


1 points are obtainec 


1 in the same mann 


but the l.aeko 


catiscutollTnini : 


-, lol21. 


I'diiit .'!.") is ', in 


ell l)el(.\v the faslu.in. 


ihlr waist-line. 



as in frock- 



(liag 



2() Lo 24 is s inch. 

vShape as indicated from 21 to 24 and down to the hottorn. 

1 to 2S, O to ;!] , \V to 13, are each 2^ inches. 

Shape lapel and front as indicated. 

Place pockets on the side and a tiap as shown in this diagram. 

Flare the skirt according to taste in the same manner as shown in the 

am Flaring of Skirt. 



Single Breasted New Market. 




THE PADDOCK. 

j\Ieasurements used : 

Natural waist 17 inches 

Fashionable waist 19 " 
Til the seat 26.V " 

FulUengtli 46 

Breast 40 

Waist 36 " 

vSeat 41 

To Draft. 
All systematical ])oints are ol)taine(l in the usual manner. The 
difference in this coat is, that the opening is at the side of Imck in place 
of the middle of back, hence, there is no seam at the middle of back. 
Make the width of back from V to S, J of the breast measure. 
Rule a line from 20 to 24. 
15 to 10 is ^ of the breast measure plus h inch. 
vShape from 10 to 8 and 14. 

vShape from 14 down to the Imttom at 16; extending :^ inch at 19. 
The front is tait in tlie samt- manner as tlie regiilar singk'-breasted 
overcoat. 

Extend 21 inches from I to H and ( ) to 12. 
Shape lapel and front as indicated in the diagram. 
25 to W is I of the breast measure. 
IJraw a line from W to 15. 

The front end of the pocket is half way between AV and 15. 
Take out a small V at the end of the pocket and shape from 15 to the 
front end of the pocket, and shape from 9 to the front end of the pocket 
as indicated. 

The skirt can be flared moderately by making 2 or .3 slashes in the 
same manner as indicated in the diagram of Flaring of Skirt. 



The Paddock. 




POLICEMAN'S COAT. 

ll()\vini{ are the measureniL'iits use( 



Natural waist 




IS inehes 


Fashionable 


' waist 


20 " 


To the seat 






2S " 


1- ull length 


of e 


oat 


■K) " 


Ih-east 






15 " 


Waist 






41 " 


Seat 






46 " 



To Draft. 

All systematical points are olitained in the same manner as in the 
regular frock-coat. 

L to O is {f waist measure plus | inches. 

Shape from I to and down to the bottom. 

Square up from I to 26. 

2() to 30 is 8 inches. 

I to 1 1 is 4^, inches. 

Wtn b! is .-5 inches. 

W to tlie lower billion is the same distance as from W to IM minus l 
inch. 

Take out a V as indicated in the diagram of .1 inch, extending from 
the lower button up. 

2(> to P is the same distance at from 26 to 30 minus V inch. 

P to 27 is 1{ inches. 

Take out a V at P as indicated. 

Shape from P to 26, 26 to 30, 30 to 1 1 and 1 1 to 13. 

The skirt is cut the same way as in a Double-Breasted Prince ,Vlbert. 

There are 10 liuttons on each side of the front part, a side-edge at the 
fold with 3 buttons, the length of the side-edge is -j of the length of 
the back-skirt. 

THE COLLAR. 

Square out and down from B. 

A to B is the length of the collar. 

B to C is 2^ inches. 

Make a stand as the dotted line indicates of Ij inches at the back. 

A to D is 4|- inches. 

C to E is 3} inches. 

Shape as indicated from .\. to C, A to D, D to E, and E to C. 



Policeman's Coat. 




SINGLE AND DOUBLE-BREASTED 
COACHMAN'S COAT. 

ilcasui'cmL'nts used : 

Natural waist 17 inches. 

I'ashionable waist LSI " 

Full length of single-breasted coat 36 " 

Full length of double-breasted coat 43 " 

Breast 30 " 

Waist 32 " 

Seat 37 " 
To Draft. 

All systematical points are obtained in the same manner as in the 
regular frock coat. 

The skirt is the same as that of a Prince AliK-rt, nothing being taken 
out at W. 

Extend a button-stand of l.\ inches from I to 11, to 12 and W to 13. 

Place 6 button holes in the front of the single-breasted coat; it has 
a regulation lapel and collar, 

A large flap is placed over the pocket. 

The side-edge at the fold of the skirt is 5 of the length of the back- 
skirt and has 3 buttons, one at the waist line, one at the b()ttom and one 
half way between the bottom and the waist line. The dotted line indi- 
cates a double-breasted overcoat worn by coacnmen. 

The lapels are produced in the same manner as that of the Prince 
Albert except that it is not so ])eaked at the top. 

The lapel should be 3 inches at the top, 3.V inches at the breast line, 
and 3 inches at the bottom. 

Place the side-edge at fold, same as in the single-breasted coat. This 
coat closes with 7 buttons up to the neck. 

THE COLLAR. 
Square out and down frcm B. 
A to B is the length of the collar. 
B to C is 2^ inches. 

]\Iake a stand as the dottcil line indicates of 1 ] inches at the back. 
A to D is 4-^ inches. 
C to E is 3 1 inches. 
Shape as indicated from A to (.', A to D, D to E, and E to C. 



Coachman's Coat. 




VALET'S COAT. 

'I'hc fiilldwinir arc the iiK-asurciiK'nls use'd : 

Natural waist Ki'. inrlie'S. 

Fashionabk' waist IS 

To the seat 25 

Full length of coat 30 " 

l^reast .".(i 

Waist 32 " • 

Seat 37 " 

To Draft. 
All systematical ixnnts are olitaiiied in the same manner as in the 
frock coat. 

There is no button-stand added to this e(>at but extend -1 inch to 
front at 1. 

L to ( ) is I waist measure, nhnus ■; incli. 

Sha]ic the front as indicated from (J to ■( inch front of I, O and down 
to W. 

Ivcduce skirt the same as in the cutaway \ inch at W. 

Take out a V in front \mvt as indicated so as to make it sleek at the 
waist. 

Place a side-edge whh 3 buttons at the back fold. The length of 
the side-edge should be H of the length of the back skirt. 

Place a broad Ha]) at tlie side, extending down from the top of skirt. 
This tki]) should be shajicd as hidieatcd in this diagnmi with a Initton 
in each corner, and each end should be braided. 

This coat shoul<l lie linished with a standing collar trinmied with 
braid and liuttons. 

There should be (i buttons on each side of front with braid as 
shown in the diagram. 

In all other respects this coat is produced in the same manner as the 
cutawai,' coat. 



Valet's Coat. 





THE COLLARS AND LAPELS. 



This diagram shows the position in which the collars are cut and how they should hv when finished. 
The two upper diagrams represent collars and lapels of the cutaway coat and tlic I'rincc Albert coat. 
The three lower ones represent full dress coats with peaked lapel, full dress coat willi shawl collar, and 
a cutaway coat with long roll. The diagrams explain themselves, therefor explanations for the same 
will be unnecessary ; however, they should be closely studied so as to observe the difference beween the 
various collars and lapels. 

8a 




'I'liis diagram illustrates the eollars and lapels of a single-breasted sack, single-breasted overcoat. 
d< -ul )le-breasted sack and a shawl collar tuxedo coat. Note their positions and the different styles, and 
inasmuch as the diagrams explain themselves it is unnecessary to explain the same any further. 
Tollars and lapels are individuaHties to the coat that can only be obtained by training of the eye 
and by good A\-orkmanship. 



THE CAPES. 

All capes arc drafted according to the breast measure, using the di- 
visions in the same manner as in drafting the coats. We will use 40 breast 
measure antl jjroceed as follows : 

FULL CIRC LEG APE. 

Square out and down from A. 

Square up from A. 

A to B is J- breast measure. 

Make a circle from B to C, using point A as the pi\-ot. 

A to G is on the halves of the breast measure. 

G to H is 2\ inches. i 

A to E is the full length of the cape at front. 

Sweep from E to D, using point A as your pivot. 

Shape from B to H and N. 

Extend a button-stand to the front of Ih inches. 

This completes the Inill Circle Cape. 

TIIREE-OUAirrER CIRCLE CAPE. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to G is 2 breast measuiX'. 

Square out from G. 

G to F is ^ of the breast measure. 

Draw a line from F to A. 

Square out from A by a line drawn from F, finding point Z. 

A to B is ir breast measure. 

A to I is 1^; of the 1 ireast measure. 

A to T is s (if the breast measure plus ^ inch. 

Shape as indicated from I to J and B. 

G to H is 2;^ inches. 

Measure off the full length of the cape at front. 

Sweep from O to Z, using point A as the pivot. 

Extend a button-stand to the front of 1^ inches. 

This completes the three-quarter Circle Cape. 

MILrrARY CAPE. 

Sc^uare out and down from A. 

A to G is i breast measure. 

Square out from G. 

G to F is on the halves of the breast measure. 

Rule a line from F to A. 

Square out from A by line drawn from F. 

A to K is ^ of the breast measure. 

Square out from A by line draw^n from F. 

A to K is I of the breast measure. 

A to J is V breast measure plus i inch. 

Take a regular coat pattern, size 40, place shoulder point at J 
and the back in position as indicated in this diagram, the highest part 
at K and let the front, and back shoulders run together as indicated by 
the shoulder ends. 

Shape according to the pattern from K to L and I^ to X. 

G to H is 2|- inches. 

Extend a button-stand of 1-^- inches or whatever amount is desired. 

Measure off the front length from B to T and sweep horn T to 
X using point A as vour pivot. 

This completes the Military Cape. 



Regular atid ^^ Cape and Full Circle 




SINGLE-BREASTED NO-COLLAR VEST. 

'J'hc fullowiny are the- measurements used : 
Waist length 17 inches 
Breast 36 " 

Waist 32 " 

(Opening 11 " 

Full length 25 " 

To Draft, 

• 

Square out and down troni A. 

A to B is ^ of breast measure plus 3^ inches. 

A to C is the waist length. 

Square out B and C. 

B to W is i breast. 

W to G is 3 inches. 

B to J is the breast measure. 

J to I is 2 inches. 

li to H is i breast. 

Square up and down from Ct. 

Square up from H. 

i\ to R is I breast measure. 

G to S is 1 inch. 

Rule a line from R to S . 

Square back from U finding ]ioint Z. 

I^lace corner of square r>n S, let long arm of S(|uare rest on Z and square 
u]) from S to X and 0. 

X to Q is ^ breast. 

Rule a line from X 1 < > Z. 

A to 2 is ^ inch . 

Xto Vis J, inch. 

IJ to S is .1 incli. 

.\ to 1 is ;. l.reast. 

Shape from 2 to 1 and 1 to <S. 

V to Y is same distance as from 1 to N minus \ inch. 

G to D is 1/12 breast. 

L to O is on the halves of the waist measure on the division. 

Rule a line from Q to I and down. 

Scjuare down from I. 

L to N is 1 inch. 

C to M is 1 inch.' 

M to E is Tf waist measure. 

E to K is 1 inch. 

Measure your distance from 1 to 2 and i)lacc result on X. 

Measure down your opening measure and aild 1 inch. 

Measure from 2 to 1, place result on X and a])i>ly the full length of vest 
and add H inches, thereby finding point 3. 

1' is half-way between 3 and 0. 

Square back from P. 

.Shape from Z to M and shape the armdiole as indicated in the diagram 
in .m S, and ^ inch below the breast line. 

Shape from Y and h inch in front of the lialance line. 

Shape the shoulder as indicated from Y to V. 

Shape the front as indicated from X to the opening, down the full 
length of the vest and from 5 to 3. 

Shape lower part of the back as shown in this diagram and finish as 
represented. 

8« 



Single-Breasted No-Collar Vest. 




DOUBLE-BREASTED NO-COLLAR VEST. 

The same measurements are used as in the single-breasted vest and all points arc olitaincd 
same manner. The only difference being that we allow 3 inches to the front at the toj) and '2 i 
at the bottom. 

Place the buttons 'A inches back of the breast line at the top and 2 inches at the bottom, 
these few exceptions the double-breasted vest is drawn exactly the same as the single-breasted. 



n the 
nches 




DOUBLE-BREASTED NO C( JLLAJ^ VI':ST J'RONT. 

It has been noted that it is almost impossble to cut a doublc-brcastcd no-collar vest williout \n-o- 
ducing a surplus of material at the opening; and it has also l)ecn imtril that in striped ^onds sliould 
the tailor hold his stay tape as short as necessary in order to olitain tlic desired closeness the stripes 
will run uneven. In order to avoid this, ] in kwA as follows : 

Having cut the vest in the regular way accoriling to your measures, slash open the pattern from 
the arm-hole down to the front of the Ijreasl pocket. Form a plait of h inch from the opening down 
to front end of breast pocket. 

In chopping the cloth, cut out the V from the arm-hole to the breast pocket produced from this 
method. 

By performing this operation upon the front part you will obtain the desired shortness and at the 
same time obtain breast in the vest, and if the goods is of striped material the stripes will be made to 
run smooth and even. Tliis method will have no effect upon the shoulder but will close well at the open- 
ing and arm-hole. 



SINGLE-BREASTED NOTCH-COLLAR VEST. 
FOR FAT MAN 

The following are the measurements used: 

Waist length 18 inches 
Opening 18 " 

Full length 28 " 
Breast 43 ' ' 

Waist 44 " 

To Draft. 

All points are obtained in the same manner as in the previous diagrams, the only difference being 
that 1 inch is extended from 4 to 5 and a V taken out in the pocket so as to produce a closer fitting 
vest at the bottom and to give a better fit over the stomach. 

In shaping back at M come back -J- of an inch for each inch your subject is over proportion. 

Lay up a collar as indicated on the diagram. In other respects it is the same as in previous drafts. 




Double Breasted. No Collar Vest 




Fat Man's Vest 



DOUBLE BREASTED LAPEL FRONT VEST 

Areasurements as fdllows: 

Waist Icn.^th 17 iiiclu's 

OlK'iiing 12'| " 

I'ull length 25i " 

Breast 36 

Waist 30 " 

Note that this subject is 2 inches less than the proportionate at waist. The same principle is used 
in all vests, hence, all points are ol)taine(l in the same manner as in previous <lraft. 

To Draft. 
Square down from I as indicated for the extension of front and make the extension '^\ inches at 
the top and 2 inches at the bottom. 

A \'' is taken out of the front ])art Init only in vests where the waist measure is less than the pro- 
]-iortionate. 

Come inside of M, -g inch for c\ery inch your waist measure is less than ])n)])i)rti()n. 

Sha])e the collar as indicated in tlic diagram. In all other resjiects it is identical with ]irevious 
drafts. 



FULL DRESS VEST. 

The following are the measurements used : 

Waist length 17 inches 
Breast 36 " 

Waist 32 " 

Opening 20 " 

Full length 25 " 

To Draft. 

All points are obtained in the same manner as in previous drafts. Measure off the opening, add an 
inch to the same, then the full length ]ilus \\ inches. 

Draw a line from 7 to X and shape as indicated from X to 7. 

If a single-breasted \-est is desired, shai)C from 7 to 3, and for a doubledn-easted extend 3 inches 
from 7 to 6, and 1 J inches fmni 3 to i. 

ShajK' collar as indicated, in other rcsi)ects it is identical witli ])re\i(ius drafts. 




Double Breasted Vest with Separate Lapel 




Full Dress Vest 




CLERICAL VEST 

Measurement use( 



Vest Length 17^ inches 
Fnli Length 26' " 
Breast 38 inches 

Waist 34 " 

Collar 15+ 



To Draft. 

All_ systematical points are obtained in the same manner as in the regular vest. 
Q to T is J breast. 
Shape as indicated from V to T. 

Rule a line from where you attach the collar down to the bottom at the side as dotted line indicates. 
This will give you the separate part illustrated in the front of the draft marked the right side, 
which is the side where the buttons are to be placed. 

Shape another front part as indicated for the side where the button-holes are to be put in. 
Place one button-hole at V and one opposite Y, and about <S button-holes at the side. 
Draw a collar as indicated in the diagram and finish as represented . 



GRADING 




SACK GRADE FROM 32—42. 

Any kind of a pattern can be i^radcl w hcthtT it be good or bad, the only difference being, if you 
are using a good pattern as a model y >u will i )btain a good grade, and if you are using a bad" pattern 
for a model you will obtain a poor set of patterns. 

We will in this case use a 36 



I model and 


])rocced as follows 


THE 


15.\CIv PART. 


■ of winch 


you wish to make 


astdine 





Lay the model upon the \Ki]r^v of which \'<)n wish to make a chart, mark around tl 
mark at Jl, which indicates the 

B to C is 1 inch. 

Rule a line as indicated from C to 1. C to 2, C to ;j, C to 4, C to 5 and C to 8. 

Extend the lines at A and 6. 

The increase and decrease at 5 is 'h inch. 

The increase and decrease at A, 1, 2 and .'i is A of an inch. 

Mark off as many sizes as you wish, say to 42, and mark them off in the manner shown in the 
diagram. 

The decreases are the same, i« of an inch frcmi the model. Mark them off in the same manner 
uiTtil you reach 32 for the same points as explained for the increases. 

The increase and decrease at 6 is ^ inch. 

Square across from your 6-32 size and 6-42 size and find the increase and decrease at S. 

Shape up your pattern size by size and the charts for the backs are completed. 

THE PROXT PART. 

Mark around the model and draw your breastdinc. 

Square up from the front of scye G to 2. 

G to S is 1 inch. 

Rule a line from S to X. 

Rule down from S to D. 

Now draw the following lines: D to 6, 1) to 3, 1) to 4, I) to 1, U to 8 and 1) to 9. 

The increases and decreases at X, at 2, at 3 and at 1 are 3/16 inch. 

The increases and decreases at 5 are j inch, at 6, ^ inch. 

The increases and decreases at 8 and 9 are \ inch. 

Mark all your points promptly and clearly. 
Shape off your 42 pattern and next shape ( IT y. -ur 32 jjattern. 

The pockets are found by marking oh the ])ockct from your model as I and J indicates for the 
side-pocket. V and Y for the ticket pocket. 

H is ^ the distance from J t<_) 1 . 

Square up from H. 

Rule a line from G to J and down and from G to I and down . 

The increases and decreases as indicated in the diagram are I inch. 

F is half-way between V and Y. 

Square up from F, finding point E. 

Rule a line from E to Y and E to V. 

The increase and decrease in this ] i; ickd is I he same as at the side-pocket. 

Mark where you wish your bull n , I .r -i/,.' 12 and 32 as shown. 

Drawalinefrom Ato A, B to ]>, C i..C and 1) to D. 

The difference between the buttons for each size is |- inch. 

See that you have your charts in good order and all points clear before \'ou. 

Lay your charts on your regular block pattern paper; commence by marking around the 42 size, 
mark off the pockets and your button-stand. Next trim vour pattern down to 41, take your next pat- 
tern in the same manner as you took the 41 and trim oft" your chart to 40; take that iiattern olT, and 
so on, until \-ou ha\-c reduced vour chart to 32 and obtained the entire set. 



Sack Coat Grade 



■2 'ZEAL. 




FROCK GRADE. — From 32 to 42. 

I5ACIV PART. 

The principal points, the increases, etc., are obtained in the same manner as in the sack grade. 
Place your model on the paper of which you wish to nvakc the eliart and mark arovmd, the same 
,va}' as the heavy line indicate. 

]\lark off your depth of scve at B. 

B to C is 1 inch. 

Draw a line from C to 1, C to 2, C to 3, C to 4 and C to 5. 

Extend your length at 9. 

The increases and decreases at A, 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 are all o/'lG of an inch. 

The increase and decrease at 7 is |- inch. 

'J'he increases and decreases at 8 and 9 are ^ inch. 

Sha])e arotmd yotu^ 42 size from A to 1, 1 to 2, 3, 4 and 5, and fron; 5 to (i. 

The increases and decreases in the width of back between 6 and 7 are 1/16 inch. 

Mark all your points clearly and the chart for the back is complete. 

FRONT PART. 

]\lark arotuid the model as shown l:)y heavy line. 
Square up at fi^ont of scye from G to 2. 

G to S is 1 inch. Rule a line from S to X. ]\ule a line down to D. 

Rule a line D to 6, D to 3, D to 4, D to 1, and D to 5. 
The increase and decrease at X is 3/16 inch, also at 1, 2 and 3. 

Rule a line from your model X to your model 6 and parallel a line from X 42 size to 6-42 size. 
Parallel a line from X-32 size to 6-32 size. 
" " " 6-42 size to 8-42 size. 
6-32 size to 8-32 size. 
The increase and decrease at 5 is ^ inch. 
Place your model pattern at point 1-42 size and 5-42 size. 

Shape off the front and place the model pattern at point 1-32 size, at point 5-32 size and shape 
AT the front of the 32 size. 

Draw hues across at 8 and 9 as shown, and parallel the line from 8-32 size to 9-32 size. 

Parallel the line from 8-42 size to 9-42 size. 

Shape your shoulder of 42 size from point to point and shape your neck-hole in the same way. 

Shape your 32 size in the same manner. 

Shape arm-hole as indicated and you have a chart of the front jiart. 

SIDE BODY. 
Place your front part and side -body together; have the breast-line run i)arallel. 
Strike up the point X in the same manner as in grading the front part. 
Mark off your increase and decrease at X. 
Mark off the model of side-body. 
Draw a line from X to 6 and from X to 5. 
Parallel a line from X-42 size to 5-42 size on the side-body. 

X-32 size to 5-32 size " " 
" "■ " X-42 size to 6-42 size " " 

X-32 size to 6-32 size " " 
Draw a line from 5 to 2. 

5-32 size to 2-32 size 
" " " 6-42 size to 8-42 size. 

6-32 size to 8-32 size . 
Strike i.iff the bottom as indicated by lines at 8 and 9. 

Shape up vi mr 42 size as indicated from 5 to 6, 6 to 8, 8 to 9 and from 5 to 2 and 9. 
Shape up vour 32 size in the same manner. 
]ilark off your increases and decreases at 5, 2, 9 and 8 and the chart of the side-body is completed. 

THE SKIRT. 

The heavy line indicates the model for the skirt. 

lixtend lines at D and A. Draw a line across at C as shown. 

'I'he increases and decreases at A, C and D is ^ inch. 

Shape up your 32 size and your 42 size. 

This completes the skirt chart. 

Cut out the blocks in the same way as previously explained in the Sack-Grade. 



Cutaway Grade. 




SLEEVE GRADE 17 22. 

I'.) .M(H)KI,. 

TOP SLEEVE. 

Mark around the nnxk-l as tlic hcav-y line indicates. 

Draw a Hne from E to F and out. 

D is halfway between F and E. 

Draw a line from D to J 

Draw a line as indicated from E to t' ami E to H. 

The increases and decreases at I" and J are ] inch. 

The increase and decrease at G is 3/ Ki of an inch. 

The increase and decrease at H is -J- inch. 

Shape around the 22 size from E to H, G to F and from F to J. 

Parallel a line at the bottom for the 22 size. 

Shape around the 17 size from E to H, C to F and J. 

Parallel a line at the bottom for the 17 siz2. 

See that all points are clearly marked and the grade of your top sleeve is complete. 



THE UNDER-SLEEVE. 

Mark around the model as heavy line indicates. 

Place the inside seam of the top-sleeve to the inside seam of under-sleeve and mark off 
point E. 

Draw a line from E to F. 
D is halfway between E and F. 
Rule a line from D to J. 

The increases and decreases at F and J are each \ inch. 
Parallel a line from F-22 size to J-22 size. 
" " at the bottom for the 22 size. 

" " from F-17 size to j-1 7 size and parallel a line at the bottom for your 17 size as shown. 
See that you have all points clearly marked and your chart for the under sleeve is complete. 
In taking off the patternfollow the directions as given in the vSack grade. 



Upper Sleeve Grade. Under Sleeve Grade. 





L cFC. 



THE VEST GRADE 

BACK PART. 

Place the model of the vest-hack cm the ]iaper which ycu wis): to make your chart. 

Mark off the breast-line from I' aaid m.irk all around your model as the liLax-v line indicates. 

B to C is 1 inch. 

Extend the lines at A and (i. 

Draw a line from C to 1 and C to 2. 

The increases and decreases at A, 1 and 2 are all 3/16 of an inch. 

The increase and decrease at 4 is ', inch. 

The increase and decrease at 6 is \ inch. 

Parallel a line from 4-42 size to 5-42 size. 

4-32 size to 5-32 size. 

6-32 size to 5-32 size. 

' 6-42 size to 5-42 size. 

Shape up your 42 size from A to 1, 1 to 2 and 2 to 4. 
Sha]ie up "v'our 32 size from A to 1, 1 to 2 and 2 to 4. 
See tliat all your jinints are clearly marked and the chart of your vest-back is complete 

FROXT PART. 

Mark all around your model as the hea\"\- line indic;dcs. 

Draw a line from X to the front of seye at (i. 

Draw a line fr<)m (} to 2 and (i to 1. 

See tliat the l)reast-line across is clearly drawn. 

The increases and decreases at X, 1 and 2 are all 3/16 of an inch. 

Rule a line from 2 to 5. 

Parallel a line from 2-42 size to 5-42 size. 

2-32 size to 5-32 size. 
The increase and decrease at 4 is -', inch. 
The increase and decrease at 6 is \ inch. 

Place your model pattern at 1-42 size and 6-42 size and obtain the front of the 42 size. 
Place your model pattern at 1-32 size, and 6-32 size and shaps up tlie front for the 32 size. 
Shape off the 42 size from 2 to X and X t;) 1. 
Shape oflf the 32 size from 2 to X and X to 1. 
Parallel a line from 4 42 size to 3 42 size. 

4-32 size to 3 32 size. 
Shape u]) Ihe m 1( s fr. >m 5 to 4. 

.Mark off the small increases and decreases at 5, and the chart for the front ])art of vest is comjiletc. 
In takint,' off tlie iiattern follow the same rule as cKplained in the Sack Ciradc. 



Vest Grade. 




PROPORTION TABLE. 



Breast 


Depth of Scye 

8V 


strap 

11 


Blade 


Waist 


■^■2 


10 


28 


33 


9 


11 ■; 


w% 


2!) 


34 


9"/s 


IIM 


I0}i 


30 


35 


(t^s 


UH 


10?* 


31 


36 


i)y. 


12 


11 


32 


37 


^H 


12K 


IIX 


33 


38 


9-4 


12 W 


IVA 


34 


39 


10 


1234- 


1114' 


35 


40 


lO'X 


13 


12 


36 


41 


mi 


^3'4 


12^ 


37 


42 


10^ 


n% 


12H 


3S 


43 


WX 


n% 


1234: 




44 


lOH 


14 


13 




. 45 


11 


14X 


13J4: 




46 


11,51 


14 K 


13>^ 




47 


UK 


14^ 


1334: 




48 


UH 


15 


14 





SCALE OF HEJGHTS 

' 5>4 5-5 5-6 S-7 5-8 | 5-9 | 5-10 | 5-11 6 ft. BUOE 



Depth of Scye 

Strap 

Depth of Scye 

Strap '. 

Depth of Scye 

Strap , 

Depth of Scye.... 

Strap 

Depth of Scye | 9 

Strap '. i Uyi 

Depth of Scye j S)>i 

Strap 

Depth of Scye 

Strap 

Depth of Scye 

Strap 

Depth of Scye 

Strap 

Depth of Scye \ Ws 

Strap j 125^ 

Depth of Scye lO's 

Strap 13 

Depth of Scye j 10^ 

Strap 13X 

Depth of Scye i 10^ 

Strap nyi 



12 



Deptli of Seye. 

Strap 

Depth of Scye. 

Straj) 

Depth of Scye. 

Strap 

Depth of Scye. 
Strap 



10>^ \QH 



9 

liH 

9X 

UH 

UKs 

13/8 

12H 
\0'X 
13 /s 
lO'A 

im 

13 s^ i:!'4 



5-8 


5-9 1 


S;+ 


W^ \ 


11 


11 !s 


9 


9,'s 


IV4 


WVi 


^'•A 


ii'i 


ll'A 


UH 


m 


^>% 


UM 


nji 


0',4 


nH 


12 


viy% 


9|^ 


93/ 


Vi'4 


\-iy». 


oVs 


10 


Vl% 


125^ 


10 


10^ 


l-'K 




lOJi 


10?/, 


13 


13 ^s 


lOKs 


10^ 


13J^ 


nv% 1 


10>v 


'"'» 


i:!'- 


i:i-. 



14 
11 

14j^ 

UK 
11 'i 
1431 



IIX I llfi 
14^, I 15 



11 
14?8 

wyi 

14H 
11?^ 
14 5^ 
WVi 
14% 

W'A 

\^A 



11^ 
9^ 

IW 

12 
9jli 
12,'4 
10 
12K 
10'/^ 
12?< 

10?8 
13 
10>i 
13)<( 

10?4 

13>4 
lOJ^ 
13;V 
11>^ 
14 

11)4 
14X 

WYt. 
UA 

n% 

UH 

15 
11^4: 
15X 
11 -'s 
15^ 



10 

lOK 

11 

11 '4 

11>^ 

12 

12X 

\2'A 

12^ 

13 

13X 

13>^ 

13?^ 

14 



APPENDIX 



The kind of cutters that are wanted everywhere are those who can produce something, wlio have the 
ability to turn everything thev do to a practical account. It is he who can make his ability effective 
that wins. 



How to properly cut a coat is one of the most serious problems confronted by a cutter. 

Do that which is assigned thee and thou cans't not hope too much or dare too much. 

A trade and fashion journal is a friend. A good trade and fashion journal is a good friend. It 
will talk to you when you want it to talk, and will keep still when you want it to keep still. There 
are not many friends who know enough for that. 

The only thing that has puzzled the trade from time immemorial is the lack of knowing where 
the points of a paper draft will rest upon the body. — "Formula for a cure. — Learn the true fundamental 
principles governing your system." 



Fashion has its value as a moral sign post and supplies the historian, the philosopher, and the 
novelist with a guide to tlie prevailing ideas of the times. 

Every finished product known to man is but a symbol of natural laws, composed of certain propor- 
tional molecules and by their combination resulting in some material object. Systems of cutting are 
but proportional distances as found on the natural body compiled into form, each part in direct har- 
mony with its other parts. 



Because a man requires food for the sustenance of life, it does not follow that he must fill himself 
with everything that can be taken into the stomach. I have not considered it wise or necessary to fill 
the pages of this volume with anatomical drawings that have no direct bearing on the fundamental 
principles underlying its formation. It is time such theories were discarded and thrown into the hori- 
z m of the past. Cutters today need something more rational and far-reaching. 

This book is so arranged that the student should thoroughly master its first pages before attempting 
any of the advanced studies. 



Fashion is an advanced position in civilization and society resulting from a higher and nobler 
intellectual condition of the mind and a desire for individualism. 



Tlic ciiLkT 111' l()-(lu\- can im mnw keep in the I'n.'nL ranks of his iimlVssiiin willmul cunlininais 
study than an axe can lie sharpened by rubbing it ( n scft woed. He must ecntinually liring to bear 
the edge of his intellect ui).,'n llie hcird surface of the grindstone of deep study and eduealiun in liis 
particular branch "I-'or education is advancement." 

i'rogress will constantly knock at your door desiring to enter into the chamber of your intellect 
and de])nsit therein knowledge that will enrich the bleed of ycur business with life giving corpuscles. 

There shcuKl be a sense of gratitude within us for the ob.^taclcs placed in a cutter's path wliile 
transacting his regular duties. Were it not for these obstacles there wotdd be more cutters than the 
world has accomodations for. 

The skin tiglit coat witli ihe su])ertieial measures taken for their production should be forgotten. 
The free use of the Ijody without encuml)rance is the enjoyment desired by man today. 

Cutting is made vip of .1 li and Science. Instill into your system as much of (jne as you do of the other 
if you wish success. 



Mathematical rules or systems are nothing more than the trans]:)i isiiion ( if eeruun measured distances 
from the body to the same places on the coat and are composed of the scientific part of garment cutting. 
The measures taken on the body such as length of coat, arm scye, breast, waist, etc., arc but numeri- 
cal figures of distances and are not jiarts of any system or rules. 

I5y the study of Sartorial Art llie student is lirought into sympathy with the art world; through 
it Wv' may teaeh sini|)lieity, nubility, refinement and reverence of nature. 

Whether we are by nature a naked or clothed animal it is certain clothes ha\-e jilayed ;m important 
part, not only in our civiUzation, but with respect to our individuality as well. 

Every cutter should be an artist and until he is an artist he can not be a cutter in the true sense of 
the word. 

Education is a large stride toward the front in a cutter's career. 

The compilation in one's cranium of systems of cutting can no m )re mike a cutter than you can 
make a painter by filling his liands witli liru.shes. 

Carelessness and uneouthness of one's person is a step toward filling u]) the wrong side of the ledger. 




PUBLICATIONS. 

THE FOLLOWING PUBLICATIONS MAY BE HAD AT OUR OFFICE: 

The Supreme System of Cutting; Coats and Vests, price $1000 

The Supreme Trousers System *' 5 00 

The Supreme Cutter " 5 00 

The Tailor Square Cutter for Ladies' Garments " 600 



PATTERNS. 



PRICE LIST 



MEN'S 



Any Size 

J1.75 



Inveriies or Cape Overcoats 

Raglan ■ • ■ ^■"'■^ 

Surtout Overcoat l-oO 

S. B. or D. I!. Sack Overcoat 12") 

Covert Coat 1-5 

Dress or Tuxedo Coats l-S.I 

S. B. or D. B. Frock Co.Us 1.2") 

Cutaway Frocks or Walking Coats 1.00 

Single Breasted or Double Breasted 

Sack Undercoat l.OU 

Trousers, any .style 75 

Vests, any style ."iO 



Blocks in Sets 
from 32 to 42 

|l."i.00 



;.oo 



10.00 
10.00 
lO.OO 
lO.OO 

10.00 
7.00 
(i 00 



WOMEN'S 



Overgarments, plain |l.r)0 

fancy or with Capes 2.00 

S. B. or D. B. Jackets 2.00 

" ■■ Newmarket 1.75 

Frock Coats 1.25 

Bodice or Waist 1 .00 

Covert Coats 1.00 

Vests -"'I» 

Skirts I. '10 

Riding Habits $:i.00 

'■ with Trou.sers 4.00 

Skirts 3.00 

Trousers 1.00 



S12.00 
1.5.00 
10.011 
14.00 
10 00 



.").on 

10.00 

6 Sizes 
from 32 to 42 
110.00 

15.00 



^^::«^°M.^*j> 



THE 



ART AND 

SCIE/NCE, 

PRACTICAL 





FASniONABLE 

CUTTER 
^° TAILOR'S 



TECHAJICAL 
INFORMATION 



CUTTERS andTAILORS. 
PUBLISHEDQUARTERLY 



aZEHE 



FREDl^.T. CROONBORG 

187-189 DEARBORN ST 

CHICAGO. 



V 



THE 


FRED'K 


T. 


CROONBORG 


TAILOR'S 


CUTTING 


SCHOOL 



Ranks higher and has 
greater practical facili- 
ties than any OTHER 
School in America, and 
is the largest institution 
of its kind in the West. 




Full particulars as to 
what we teach and 
how we do it may be 
obtained upon applica- 
tion at our office 



TERMS FOR INSTRUCTIONS. 

TO BE PAID IN ADVANCE. 



(jomvlete^courseor instni.l,.,,, In I'ni.li Ta.l.u-,, time inilimiU-.l 








$100 00 












Trousers aliiiie ■ ■ ■ 








30 00 


WOMENS. 










lia";|ue":i!i"ke" an,! 'iliT h-^:,'! i^mllents'"""!" ..:.,:;:;:::.:.;. 








lOO 00 
50 00 


Till!: TAII.OK S(irAl;K (ll'TKi; wri'll INSTKI'c tkixs 








20 00 


PRACTICAL CUTTERS. 








































Ti-onse.s:,l :: 








^fo"fJ 


'iKAiuNi; ' ;■ ,.,.... :; 








30 00 


SPECIAL. 










To i.e.soM.s ,„.t l,eing practical tailors, the el.arKe fur a ful Mrs,- 








ISO 00 


SPECIAL FEATURE. 










Practical Cutters. 










For Special and Private li.stnictiun.s in .uetisurinK. drafting or enplaininK points in Coats, Vests 
Trousers or Graains, Cutting by Block Patterns, or Women's (iarment Cutting, or any point 
pertaining to tailoring in general occupying from one hour to one diy, $5.00 tO »23.00. 





THE FREDX T. CROONBORG CUTTING SCHOOL. 



ADAMS EXPRESS BUILDING, CHICAGO. 



JUL 27 190a 



